Journey to a Gritty City November 25, 2006
We pulled up stakes and moved from Florence to Naples today. It’s a three and a half hour train ride including a half hour stop in Rome. We had our Thanksgiving turkey today in the train’s dining car. It came with pasta Bolognese as a starter and boiled potatoes as a side followed with a piece of cake and coffee. We missed the dressing and other trimmings but at least we got our turkey.
Naples is a different city. In the old section the avenues and streets are a mix of a planned grid and “oh maybe we better stick another road over here”. Street vendors are everywhere which makes navigation more difficult. The feel of the city is old and dirty, like it has not been taken care of. On the other side of the coin this Saturday afternoon was energized with people milling about shopping, visiting with friends, having a snack or drinks in the numerous cafes. The buildings show the long and hard life they have lived but you can still find glimpses of the grace and beauty that once had to be the everyday face of this ancient city.
It was a tense forty minute walk to the hotel as we had been warned by several people that Naples is one of the most dangerous of Italy’s city to visit. The main hazard is pickpockets or snatch and run thieves for the walking tourist. We reached the hotel which on the outside looked like most of the older buildings we had seen but on the inside it’s a three star hotel and a definite step up from the pension in Florence although the people aren’t as friendly. The neighborhood around the hotel looks like a 1930 New York movie set. It will take a little getting used to.
We walked around this afternoon getting acquainted with the area and stopping in to see the Duomo, the main cathedral of the city. We went in after dark which added a different perspective to this 13th century church. The cathedral is grand and has a few interesting features. The first is there are 110 columns taken from pagan buildings that support the immense wooden ceiling. Next the 4th century church of Santa Restituta is attached to the Duomo and is currently the subject of an archeological dig. Lastly this is the resting place of the relics of St. Januarius. Three times a year his dried blood, sealed in two vials, is supposed to liquefy during rites in his honor. The rites are performed on September 19, the Saturday preceding the first Sunday in May and December 16. We’re not staying for the show.
Naples is a different city. In the old section the avenues and streets are a mix of a planned grid and “oh maybe we better stick another road over here”. Street vendors are everywhere which makes navigation more difficult. The feel of the city is old and dirty, like it has not been taken care of. On the other side of the coin this Saturday afternoon was energized with people milling about shopping, visiting with friends, having a snack or drinks in the numerous cafes. The buildings show the long and hard life they have lived but you can still find glimpses of the grace and beauty that once had to be the everyday face of this ancient city.
It was a tense forty minute walk to the hotel as we had been warned by several people that Naples is one of the most dangerous of Italy’s city to visit. The main hazard is pickpockets or snatch and run thieves for the walking tourist. We reached the hotel which on the outside looked like most of the older buildings we had seen but on the inside it’s a three star hotel and a definite step up from the pension in Florence although the people aren’t as friendly. The neighborhood around the hotel looks like a 1930 New York movie set. It will take a little getting used to.
We walked around this afternoon getting acquainted with the area and stopping in to see the Duomo, the main cathedral of the city. We went in after dark which added a different perspective to this 13th century church. The cathedral is grand and has a few interesting features. The first is there are 110 columns taken from pagan buildings that support the immense wooden ceiling. Next the 4th century church of Santa Restituta is attached to the Duomo and is currently the subject of an archeological dig. Lastly this is the resting place of the relics of St. Januarius. Three times a year his dried blood, sealed in two vials, is supposed to liquefy during rites in his honor. The rites are performed on September 19, the Saturday preceding the first Sunday in May and December 16. We’re not staying for the show.
posted by Gary and Holly Davis @ 10:38 AM
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