Chamonix et Alps les Francais November 16, 2006

After breakfast at our “quaint” hotel we strolled through Chamonix which is a small somewhat worn town that is set in the valley between Mont Blanc and Aiguilles de la Gliere. Mont Blanc stands 4808 meters (15,900 feet) high and Aigulles de la Gliere’s peak reaches 2852 meters (9400 feet). They both tower over Chamonix which is at 1035 meters (3500 feet). There are numerous other peaks that make up the valley wall and seem to encase not only Chamonix but also other small towns along the valley floor. The main business here is skiing followed by sight seeing, mountain climbing and hiking. Now, Mont Blanc and the higher peaks are covered with snow while the lower slopes are colored with evergreens, bright yellow aspens and a tree that is covered in bright red berries which adds a bit Vermont maple color to the scene.

We found the information center and were told that there is an incline train that goes to Le Montenvers which overlooks Mer de Glace -a glacier which is born on the flanks of Mont Blanc- and called Glacier du Geant. We hurried to catch the train which we were told had a 10AM schedule to start its climb of 900 meters. We reached the station at 10 and the young lady that was at the turnstile told us to hurry and get our ticket at the office around the corner. We got there only to find cashiers that moved slower than glaciers during Global Warming. Finally the turnstile lady came over and rushed the cashier. We boarded the small train and moments later we were on our way. The slow climb was scenic but only an appetizer for what was to come.

We reached the upper station to find a view of several snow covered summits and the snaking Mer de Glace shimmering in a valley a thousand feet or so below us. The only clouds in the sky were gathered around the peak of Les Grandes Jorasses another granite giant at 4208 meters (13,900 feet). The sun shown directly down the valley but after a few minutes we could see that with patience it would move behind other peaks and offer better “Kodak Moments”. We took a trail that lead away from the station and made ourselves comfortable. By 11:30 the sun had hidden itself behind the rocky massifs and we were able to take our pictures. We wandered back to the station and viewed an exhibit of Alpine animal life which included mounted birds, sheep, marmots, wild hogs, foxes and ermine. It was well done but only took about ten minutes of our time. We found out that the next train back to Chamonix was at 1:30PM and it was now 12:30. The choice to wait and have yet another baguette sandwich or hike down to town and find more interesting fare. We started down the trail. The sign at the trailhead stated 1 hour and 40 minutes to reach Chamonix; it took us ten minutes longer as we stopped to gasp at the views and take untold numbers of photos. When we neared the bottom the trail lead us through an Alpine amusement park (closed for the season) which included a roller luge that looked guaranteed to give anyone over the age of 25 a heart attack.

Back in town we stumbled on a burger joint run by a Brit that had the best cheeseburgers we have had since leaving Hong Kong. (Note: The almost two hour hike and breakfast now seven hours past may have something to do with our favorable review.) This was followed by another stroll through town and then a return to the hotel.

We had a few problems with our room last night. The floor was buckled as if it had been soaked and then allowed to dry with no effort made to minimize the warping of the wood. The view was over the small river that runs through town, but it faced away from Mont Blanc and into other buildings. The temperature during the night must have reached 120ﾟ or at least it seemed. Approaching the manager with our complaints we were told that there were other rooms available and were allowed to look at a couple of other rooms. We moved to a room facing Mont Blanc, not a great view as there are still buildings but much better, it has a private balcony and seems to be less tropic. Happy now as I finish this we prepare for tomorrows journey which takes us out of France and to Italy.

We have thoroughly enjoyed our time in France and have found it much more hospitable and easier to tour than we previously thought. I intend to return with a bicycle and tour more of the countryside, moving between the regions by train and then cycling to see the sights. Holly is non-committal at this time, but I think she’ll come around. Anyone interested in joining us please let me know.