All Railroads Finally Lead to Rome November 28, 2006

We finally found our way through the maze that stood between us and the Naples railway station this morning. The Gritty City does not easily release its captives.

It’s a short ride to Rome from Naples especially when you are sitting across from two Italian Grandmothers that went on and on talking about who knows what and then pulled out two of the best looking and smelling sandwiches ever. Luckily as my hunger was taking over and I was about to pounce on grandmother number 1’s sandwich we pulled into Rome.

It was a short walk to our hotel and it is one of the nicer we have stayed in. This being the last stop on the Davis East West Expedition we thought to end on a high note. After checking in we had lunch at a restaurant down the street and then backtracked to the train station. The metro also stops here so we bought a seven day metro pass and took our first ride under the streets of Rome. To get acquainted with the city we thought we would go see the Trevi Fountain. Just two stops and a ten minute walk and we were standing in front of the famous water work along with a couple of hundred other people. Ten minutes, a couple of pictures, two coins over the shoulders and we moved on.

We had seen an advertisement about two theaters that show movies in their original language so we started the search. What we have found in Italy is street addresses can be difficult to locate. The street numbering systems are not what we are used to and don’t seem to follow a standard method. We finally found both theaters just to find that no English movies were being shown. Oh well, more of the city covered.

Back at the hotel and surprise of surprises our TV had English movies. Bad ones but this is the first English TV beside CNN and BBC that we have seen in months. So if you’ll excuse me I’m going to watch a movie.

A Blast from the Past November 27, 2006

We booked a tour that included Pompeii and Mt Vesuvius for today. We haven’t taken many guided tours since we left Russia almost three months ago but with one day left in Naples and no good way to get to Vesuvius we decided that this would be a good time to bend our rules of travel.

The guide picked us up at the Duomo a few blocks from the hotel shortly before 11AM. There was another couple from Cambridge, England, who was also on our tour, although they were only doing Pompeii.

We arrived at Pompeii and the jaded tourist that now resides in us smiled and said “I knew it”. The old town is wedged into today’s urban sprawl and from the outside it seems not to be an inviting place. That perspective changed once we were inside. We left the outside modern day world behind and were taken back almost two thousand years as we wandered around this sprawling archeological site.

There is a question about who founded Pompeii. One theory is that it was the Osci in the 8th century BC while more historians are now leaning toward the Etruscans in the 7th century BC. It was visited and settled by the Greeks before the Sannites came down from the mountains of Irpinia to establish themselves along the coast. I had always thought that Pompeii was a Roman colony, but now know that it had a history long before Rome was Rome.

The ruins of Pompeii were rediscovered in the late 16th century during the digging of a canal to divert the Sarno River. Nothing was done with the find until almost 150 years later under the direction of Bourbon Carlos III. The neighboring city of Herculaneum, covered by a layer of solid lava rock, had been excavated years earlier but the fact that Pompeii was covered in a layer of ash made it much easier and the finds were better preserved than in the former site.

During the 18th century the main purpose of the excavations was to locate artifacts and remove them for relocation to museums, public and private. Since the late 19th century the purpose of the excavations has been to preserve the site as much as possible while bringing back the elements of the upper structures to provide a sensation of life and high emotional impact.

If you have seen the human figures on Discovery Channel shows about Pompeii you may be interested to know that these are plaster casts, beginning around 1860 by the then head of excavations Giuseppe Fiorelli. He pioneered the process of locating the hollows left by organic masses, drilling into the hollow and then filling it with plaster. The forms of over 1100 people as well as animals, plants, wooden objects etc have all been saved in this fashion.

If it seems that a lot of time has been spent digging Pompeii out of the ash you are right. The fact is that it was a large town that contained dwellings and business to support 15,000 people, give or take a few thousand, gives us an idea of how large this project was. The town came under direct control of the Romans in 80BC after the “Social Wars” and became a center for wealthy Romans that built villas on the hillsides surrounding the Bay of Naples. Because of this the town had for years undergone civic improvements sponsored by Rome. These improvements were in the form of an aqueduct to supply the town with water and local water system to distribute the water, large ornate public areas such as temples and judicial buildings and roads built to Roman standards.

In 62 AD there was a severe earthquake close to Pompeii that caused appreciable damage. On August 24, 79 AD, with rebuilding still being carried out, Mt. Vesuvius came to life spewing ash and lava down on the surrounding countryside. Many of the residents of Pompeii were able to escape but many lost their lives in the devastation that rained down from the summit of Vesuvius. What took the life of the town almost two thousand years ago also preserved a view into the past that we would otherwise not have.

To walk among the ruins of Pompeii is an amazing experience. Much of the layout of the town has been excavated with the buildings in various states of completeness. Some shops may still have cooking pots or a bakery may still have its oven. Most structures are just a shell but make up the neighborhoods along the stone lined streets. Some houses still have mosaic floors and partial murals on their walls. One brothel we visited still had its catalog of services, in living color, displayed along its walls to entice customers two millennia ago.

You may or may not know that Naples is the origin of Pizza so we had the local version for lunch today. A simple pie that says to you “this is the way it was meant to be”. A very good mozzarella cheese with a tangy tomato sauce on a thin crust with a pinch of basil is the pie of the day. The other classic is made with tomato sauce, garlic and oregano.

Next stop was Vesuvius. We said good-bye to Norman and Jan our new Cambridge friends and with our Italian-only speaking driver we were off to the winding road up the flanks of the infamous volcano. The road runs out for us peasants and tourists about 500-600 feet below the summit but a twenty minute walk later you find yourself looking into the crater that buried two towns and thousands of people. The summit today was covered by clouds so we were not able to see either Naples or Pompeii but the views of the crater and rim were excellent. We walked about a quarter of the way around the rim until the trail ran out and then headed back to the where we had left the driver with a promise to return by 3:30 PM. We made it with 4 minutes to spare. Vesuvius is the only active volcano in continental Europe.

Funniculi, Funnicula November 26, 2006

After consulting with a very nice lady at the hotel front desk Holly and I headed to the Funicolare Central, the funicular railway that’s opening was heralded by the perky Italian song. We took the funicolare up the hill and then stumbled around until we found the bus that was recommended to us. The bus dropped us at Castel Sant’ Elmo which from the base you get a great view of old Naples and Mt. Vesuvius. Today was hazy so we didn’t linger long but hopped back on the bus that would take us to where the route intersected a different bus route. This bus would take us out to the sea wall and road along the Bay of Naples. The views of the bay and Vesuvius were worth the trip.

Once down at the bay we strolled along the walkway watching the sailboats and the people fishing along the rocks. We turned inland after a while as we had spotted a Mexican restaurant that we wanted to try today. As it turned out after walking forty five minutes we found the restaurant was closed on Sundays, which seems to be quite common here. After a fast food lunch, the Museo Archeologico Nazionale was next on the agenda.

The National Archeological Museum has one of the finest collections of Greek and Roman antiquities - a lot of which came from Pompeii and Herculaneum. Near perfect statues and artifacts from everyday life are on display, but my favorite was the collections of mosaics that were recovered as the excavation of the two doomed towns was underway. The museum is a good way to prepare for a visit to Pompeii which we plan to do tomorrow.

Journey to a Gritty City November 25, 2006

We pulled up stakes and moved from Florence to Naples today. It’s a three and a half hour train ride including a half hour stop in Rome. We had our Thanksgiving turkey today in the train’s dining car. It came with pasta Bolognese as a starter and boiled potatoes as a side followed with a piece of cake and coffee. We missed the dressing and other trimmings but at least we got our turkey.

Naples is a different city. In the old section the avenues and streets are a mix of a planned grid and “oh maybe we better stick another road over here”. Street vendors are everywhere which makes navigation more difficult. The feel of the city is old and dirty, like it has not been taken care of. On the other side of the coin this Saturday afternoon was energized with people milling about shopping, visiting with friends, having a snack or drinks in the numerous cafes. The buildings show the long and hard life they have lived but you can still find glimpses of the grace and beauty that once had to be the everyday face of this ancient city.

It was a tense forty minute walk to the hotel as we had been warned by several people that Naples is one of the most dangerous of Italy’s city to visit. The main hazard is pickpockets or snatch and run thieves for the walking tourist. We reached the hotel which on the outside looked like most of the older buildings we had seen but on the inside it’s a three star hotel and a definite step up from the pension in Florence although the people aren’t as friendly. The neighborhood around the hotel looks like a 1930 New York movie set. It will take a little getting used to.

We walked around this afternoon getting acquainted with the area and stopping in to see the Duomo, the main cathedral of the city. We went in after dark which added a different perspective to this 13th century church. The cathedral is grand and has a few interesting features. The first is there are 110 columns taken from pagan buildings that support the immense wooden ceiling. Next the 4th century church of Santa Restituta is attached to the Duomo and is currently the subject of an archeological dig. Lastly this is the resting place of the relics of St. Januarius. Three times a year his dried blood, sealed in two vials, is supposed to liquefy during rites in his honor. The rites are performed on September 19, the Saturday preceding the first Sunday in May and December 16. We’re not staying for the show.

A Good Mix November 24, 2006

Today was a museum day. We walked from the pension to the Piazza della Signoria. In 1497 the fanatical friar Savonarola induced his followers to hurl their possessions into the flames of a fire built in the piazza. We know this today as the “bonfire of the vanities”. Anyone that exhibits that much control over people tends to make the powers that be nervous so a year after the celebrated inferno Savonarola himself was hanged and then burned on the same spot. Today a plaque marks the spot. At the edge of the piazza stand several famous statues including Cellini’s “Perseus” holding the head of Medusa, “The Rape of Sabines” and “Hercules and the Centaur”.

Next on the list: the Uffizi Museum. The Uffizi houses some of the greatest Renaissance art. The collection was first brought to what is today the museum in 1581 and the collection grew through the support of the Medici family. The collection was bequeathed to the people of Florence by the last Medici, Anna Maria Lodovica, in 1743. The most famous painting here is the “Birth of Venus” by Botticelli, as well as other works by the artist. Paintings by Raphael, Michelangelo, Rubens, van Dyck, Titian and da Vinci. These along with a host of other artists make up this huge collection that spans almost 400 years of art. A bonus at the Uffizi was a special da Vinci exhibit that gave an overview of his work both art and science. The theme was to get you to think about how his mind worked in both fields. It was well done and interesting not only for the insight into the man but also machinery and techniques of his day.

We moved to the Piazza dei Giudici and to the Musea di Storia Scienza (Museum of Science History) which is next door to the Uffizi. Here are displayed early scientific instruments representing several disciplines. The most exciting being instruments owned and used by Galileo; telescopes, astrolabes, compasses, lenses, machines for measuring the movement of mass and of all things one of his finger bones that was kept as a nearly scared relic and is housed in a crystal case. Globes of all types, meteorological instruments, early electrical experiments and medical instruments make up the bulk of the collection. The telescopes dating from the 14th century were fascinating as well as some of the first models of the human body. The body models were used to train surgeons in obstetrics and common maladies of the day.

Last but not least on the tour du jour was the Galleria dell’ Accademia (Accademia Gallery). The pride and joy of this museum is the original Michelangelo’s “David”. Not being an artist or a student of art I will not try to explain what makes this work considered by many as the definitive work of the High Renaissance in sculpture. I would just say that to see this statue in person is to understand why it has received the adoration of people since Michelangelo completed it in 1504. There are several other works by Michelangelo also at the Accademia as well as works from other artists of the period.

Our last day in Florence was laid allowed us to see both some of the world’s great art masterpieces but also some of the important scientific tools used by men defining the physical world in a time when it was still considered to be a black art by a large portion of the population. The two fields together help to give us a better understanding of how and why our society has evolved into what we have today.

Unfortunately we ended the day doing laundry. Fortunately we did it at a Laundromat right around the corner from our pension.

Our Italian Thankgiving November 23, 2006

Happy Thanksgiving!

Today we wanted to do something special in commemoration of the holiday we would spend without family or friends. We decided we would visit the American Military Cemetery outside of Florence near Falciani. This cemetery has a special meaning to me as my uncle is buried here. This is my mother’s brother who was in the American Air Corps. His plane was shot down over Italy on March 20, 1945 just 43 days before the surrender of the axis forces in Italy on May 2. Paul Loenneke was 21 years old when he died.

There are 4,402 servicemen and women interred at the cemetery, most of them died in the fighting after the capture of Rome in June 1944. The cemetery is set on the banks of the Greve River with the grave sites being on the west bank. It is a beautiful area surrounded by wooded hills and is in immaculate condition. A large memorial on the western edge overlooks the park.

We traveled to the cemetery on a local bus which deposited us a kilometer or so from the gate. We walked back and crossed the Greve River bridge and found the office closed for lunch. There was a phone outside the office with instructions on how to contact the office. We did so and within five minutes the manager, a retired service man arrived. After taking the information he located Uncle Paul’s grave and drove us to it. He was extremely helpful and we could tell cared much for the people that are in his care. We lingered at the grave site while stories my mother told me about her brother came to mind. I am sorry that I never knew Uncle Paul and will always be grateful to him for the sacrifice he made. I am glad we were able to pay our respects on this Thanksgiving Day and if there is a hereafter I hope he knows he was not alone today.

We took the bus back to town and had a traditional American lunch at McDonalds. It was the closest thing to a turkey dinner that we could find but somehow the food and the lack of loved ones made the meal a less joyful one.

We walked to the Duomo (Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore) after our feast. Started in 1296 the huge Romanesque structure was not completed until 1436. An elaborate façade in neo-gothic style was added in the 19th century to complement the original work however, it is the magnificent dome on the structure that commands respect and appreciation.

From there we walked along the Arno River and took more and better pictures of the Ponte Vecchio. The oldest bridge in Florence it was built in 1345. It was built wide enough to accommodate shops along its spans. These were originally blacksmiths, butchers and tanners. Duke Ferdinando I made a smart business move and replaced the original tenets with jewelers and goldsmiths that were able to pay a higher rent, and who I also suspect made for a more pleasant crossing of the bridge. Jewelry and goldsmith shops still line the bridge today.

Finally came our Thanksgiving treat; we stopped at a small café and had chocolate cake with coconut and real whipped cream and strong Italian coffee. A 1960’s American movie, dubbed over in Italian, was playing in background. It may not have been the traditional dessert or football fest, but it was part of our Italian Thanksgiving.

Pisa November 22, 2006

Our plan today is to catch a train to Pisa (about an hour ride), walk through the historic town, see the famous tower, have lunch and then catch the train back to Florence. I know you’re asking yourself “didn’t they just get off a train yesterday, then why would they want to take another train ride”. The answer is yes we did just get off the train yesterday and the reason is the weather was supposed to be clear today which would make viewing the Tower more enjoyable.

As we sat at breakfast a thunderstorm settled in and we ate to a light show and symphony of the natural kind. The better forecast today seems to be in jeopardy. I had an appointment to get my hair cut at 9 and by the time I was finished the sun had come out. I am told here also that the weather is very unusual this year.

Our train arrived in Pisa at noon and we started the trek across town to the Tower. We crossed the Arno River again here but found it to be a muddy, quick moving stream. We wondered if it was from the rain or if moving to the coast is the reason for the change. Anticipation built as we walked along the road toward the Tower. There’s something about seeing something in person that you have seen pictures of all your life. We had the same feelings as we approached the Eiffel Tower in Paris. Maybe it’s just towers? The bottom third of the Tower was obscured by buildings when we had our first glimpse but the angle allowed us to see the lean. It is quite surprising when everything else is more or less vertical and there stands this white marble tower that is significantly tilted. Then to our great surprise it fell over, naw just kidding, we saw people walking around the top of the Tower. As we made our way on to the grounds where the Tower stands with a large cathedral we spotted a sign that said “Tickets”. After a little investigating we found that for the paltry sum of 15 Euros (US$19) we too could walk up three hundred stairs to the top of the Leaning Tower of Pisa. Did we do it……Darn right we did. And it was worth just being able to touch and stand on such an icon. The climb is a little unnerving because you can really feel the tilt inside as you wind your way around the structures stairs that are wrapped inside of the outer wall. The view from the top on this clear blue sky day was fantastic; offering a panorama of the town the countryside and the mountains in the distance. All too soon we were told that our time was up and we descended back to the realm of mere mortals. This is one of those things that you tell yourself “I can’t believe I’m standing here in front of the Leaning Tower of Pisa.”

A nice lunch at a café with a view of the Tower and then we were off to the train station this time taking a different road just in case we might miss something. The afternoon train back to Firenze (Florence) was packed, but we found seats and were soon snoozing to the rocking motion.

Back in Florence we had to track down a bus station for tomorrow’s expedition, but I’ll save that for then.

The Rain in Spain. How About Italy? November 21,2006

This morning we took the water bus from Rialto to Ferrovia to catch the train to Florence where we will spend the next four days. Our train was on time and we were soon rolling through what we assumed was flat countryside. We assumed this because the fog limited our view to about a half a kilometer. In between the towns we were passing through farm land that looked to consist mainly of orchards and fields planted with wheat or hay. At one point the fog lifted for a short while affording us a broader view but after being in the Alps it was not inspiring although the scenes were peaceful. Rain greeted us as we came out a rather long tunnel and that set the stage for the remainder of the day.

We arrived in Florence and before heading to the hotel pack covers went on and umbrellas were deployed. The pension where we are staying is not far from the train station but the combination of rain and construction work in the area made the small side street where it is located somewhat difficult to find. What we found was a small Spartan inn but with proprietors that are friendly and helpful.

After settling in we were back in the weather; first for lunch and then a twenty minute walk to find the tourist information office. We have several things to do here and we used this afternoon to get our bearings and line out our itinerary for the next few days. Our return route was along the Fiume Arno (Arno River) which took us to the Ponte Vecchio, the famous bridge here, which is impressive even in the pouring rain. Holly took a picture of the famous causeway, but we will try to get another shot if the weather clears.

It is hard to complain after all of the good weather we have enjoyed during this trip but with the architecture to see here in Italy we hope the weather gods will smile upon us again. Maybe the mosquito sacrifice Holly made in the shower this evening will please the gods and they will allow the sun to shine once more.

Reflections of Venice November 20, 2006

Today’s itinerary consisted of one main item; a shopping trip to Murano and the glass factories and shops that the islands are known for. W started out with a quick side trip to find yarn for Holly’s cross stitch before crossing the Grand Canal on the Ponte di Rialto and then winding our way to the Ferrovia (the water bus stop at the railway station). This cross island route took us out of the main tourist area and had us wandering through more local neighborhoods. Venice streets have a way of looking alike if you don’t happen to be at a large piazza or campo and this is especially true when you’re not in a heavily visited area. Luckily there were street signs and we did have a good map so after only one or two wrong turn, “oh no it’s a canal” incidents we found our way to the Ponte Te Scalzi where we were able to re-cross the Grand Canal and there catch water bus #41 to Murano.

I believe #41’s captain is an ex demolition derby driver as he hit every pier during the fifteen stops or so both coming and going. It did keep us awake during the one hour ride although I’m sure there is a better way to do that. We arrived at Murano and were directed to a factory where we were able to watch a demonstration of glass blowing and forming. According to the narrator it takes fifteen to twenty years to become a “Master Glass Craftsman” and it is usually younger family members that are apprenticed. The three craftsmen we watched consisted of an uncle and his two nephews who both had been under his tutelage for over ten years. It does seem to be an old world business. It was amazing to watch the three men shape and add color to the glass and with heat in the furnace reaching 900+ Celsius (1650-1700 F) it must be a hot job during the summer.

The next few hours were spent shopping (Holly shopping, me getting bored and going outside to take photos) and having another fantastic lunch. So far this is the best food we have had since leaving Hong Kong and weight gain is a concern. With Holly sated from shopping and me from my zuppa and spaghetti with seafood we made our way back to old number 41 and headed back to Venice.

Luckily we traveled only two stops and then left the bus to proceed by foot and road to our hotel. This was another section of Venice but with familiarity and practice it has become easier to find our way around. One more shopping excursion for Holly and we are in for the night.

New Digs in Venice November 19, 2006

Today the roar of the street crowds below our window was a bit more subdued. We supposed because it was Sunday morning and the staggering line of travelers from the rail station were not at full tide. After breakfast we hurried to a laundromat that we had spied the day before which stood just over the first canal bridge on the Rio Terre San Leonardo. When we arrived the only other person there was a lady smoking a cigarette at the door. We assumed that she was doing laundry until she started bathing herself with a cloth while sitting in one of the facilities chairs. We finished as quickly as we could.

Next we moved from the Hotel Zecchini to the Hotel Antico Doge. We treated ourselves to a junior suite at the later which was said to have a canal view. By balancing on your left foot while leaning out the window and tightly gripping the sill you can see the canal. No matter; the room is much nicer and seems as though it will be quieter.

Another nice lunch and we hopped on water bus #1 and rode it to the end at the Lido. #1 makes every stop along the Grand Canal and this took about an hour and a half. A pleasant ride crowded with locals who appeared to be out visiting or enjoying their Sunday afternoon. The Lido is a beach that is out of the canal and in more open water. We rode on the open back deck and with the sun obscured by clouds and the wind coming off the sea we became chilled and were glad to see Ponte di Rialto come into view and our mini cruise end.

A cup of coffee, a little window shopping and it was back to the hotel. One more indulgence for each of us; Holly to do a little more window shopping and me a glass of wine at a sidewalk pizzeria / bar to watch the Venetians enjoy the end of the day.

Water Water Everywhere November 18, 2006

We went to breakfast at the Zecchini Hotel where we are staying to find a room about 12 feet wide and 15 feet long. There were maybe 20 people sitting at breakfast and every chair was occupied with the tables and chairs packed tightly into the small room that also contained a small table that held one kind of cereal, a strange red “juice”, yogurt, and a couple kinds of crackers or biscuits. Breakfast was included with the room so we sat for a few minutes and waited for a table to open up. Once it did we found that the one waiter would also bring scrambled eggs if we requested, which we did. A lesson relearned; you never know what you’re going to get until you’re there.

After breakfast we made our way to the train station info office and bought a three day pass for the water bus. Once we figured out which boat to board we were off to visit Basilica di San Marco and the Palazzo Ducale. On the way our “bus” gave us the grand view of the Canalazzo (Grand Canal to us non-Venetians). This is one place that looks like the pictures that you see in advertisements and movies. Small boats loaded with anything from people to sacks of cement ply the waters within the city and it is amazing that all the pilots seem to keep their heads as they make their way through the melee. After several stops, with passengers hopping on and off, we reached our stop at Piazza San Marco. With your first step on terra firma you know you are in tourist heaven as booths selling all sorts of memorable souvenirs of your visit to the Aquaville. Being the hardened tourist that we are we sauntered past not glancing right or left. Eye contact is to be avoided as it invites unwanted attention of tenacious street vendors.

We turned the corner and there was what is billed as the most beautiful church in Christendom; Basilica di San Marco. It is certainly the most ornate we have seen. The real wonder of the cathedral is the interior. It is famous for its mosaics which cover 43,055 square feet of the walls and floors. On this cloudy day it was somewhat dark but still a marvel to see. The cathedral originally built in 828 to house the body of St. Mark when according to legend it was brought from Alexandria in a barrel of pickled pork in order to smuggle it past the Muslim guards. It was mostly destroyed by a fire in 976 but was rebuilt and reopened in 1094. It was once a treasure trove of riches from the crusades and donations of Venice’s rich and powerful merchants. When Napoleon conquered northern Italy he looted most of the treasures and took them back to Paris where some may still be seen today in museums there.

Next came the Pallazo Ducale which is the Venetian Doge’s palace. The Doge was the figurehead leader of the Venetian government with the real power lying with the Great Council. The palace is attached to the Basilica di San Marco as it was originally built to be the Doge’s private chapel. While the building is grand furnishings are sparse. They were removed by each Doge’s heirs after their death. The government has managed to put quite a collection of art in the palace including a piece by Tintoretto that is 23’ x 75’ and is the world’s largest oil painting. Not surprisingly it is set in the Great Council Hall which is also one of the largest open rooms in Europe. One should not miss the tour of the dungeons just over the Sighing Bridge. The bridge is so named for the sound the prisoners made as they were led away. The cells remind me of some of the hotels we have stayed in on this trip.

A late lunch at a nice café and it was on to the “have to do” in Venice. We took a gondola ride complete with a singing gondolier…well he sang a little. He pointed out the home of Casanova, where Marco Polo lived, where Vagner resided but mostly joked with his compatriots as we met other gondolas carrying romantically inclined couples like us. It is a nice way to see the city and well worth the time and money.

We walked back to the hotel following signs to the rail station. We crossed fifteen to twenty bridges on the hour long walk and reached the hotel just before the rain started happy to be able to just sit and relax.

The Law of Averages November 17, 2006

Today is another travel day for Holly and me. We are leaving Chamonix and France with our destination being Venice, Italy. This requires another marathon day of travel starting at 6:40AM when we left the hotel with a schedule to arrive in Venice at 6:08 PM. This will require taking five trains. As I write this we are on number four which runs from Chambery Challes to Milan. Unfortunately this train is running about 45 minutes behind schedule so we may not make our connection to Venice. The good news is there is another train that runs two hours later than our scheduled train so with any luck we can still reach Venice tonight.

Today we see another side of autumn. The day is cool and cloudy and we have run through rain several times since we left Chamonix this morning. We’ve been lucky that all the stations where we have changed trains were either covered or it was not raining. Again the weather gods smile on us giving us good weather when we are visiting an area and saving the inclimate weather for travel days. We shall sacrifice a small cow to them tonight by having a nice steak dinner when we finally arrive at our destination.

I’ll add to this later if we don’t make Venice tonight.

Update: We missed the 3:05, 4:05, 4:15, 5:05 and 5:15 trains to Venice; the last three because they were sold out when we arrived in Milan 1hour and 15 minutes late. We finally got on the 6:05PM, second class, and we arrived at our hotel around 10PM. We were lucky that our hotel was only a five minute walk from the train station.

Chamonix et Alps les Francais November 16, 2006

After breakfast at our “quaint” hotel we strolled through Chamonix which is a small somewhat worn town that is set in the valley between Mont Blanc and Aiguilles de la Gliere. Mont Blanc stands 4808 meters (15,900 feet) high and Aigulles de la Gliere’s peak reaches 2852 meters (9400 feet). They both tower over Chamonix which is at 1035 meters (3500 feet). There are numerous other peaks that make up the valley wall and seem to encase not only Chamonix but also other small towns along the valley floor. The main business here is skiing followed by sight seeing, mountain climbing and hiking. Now, Mont Blanc and the higher peaks are covered with snow while the lower slopes are colored with evergreens, bright yellow aspens and a tree that is covered in bright red berries which adds a bit Vermont maple color to the scene.

We found the information center and were told that there is an incline train that goes to Le Montenvers which overlooks Mer de Glace -a glacier which is born on the flanks of Mont Blanc- and called Glacier du Geant. We hurried to catch the train which we were told had a 10AM schedule to start its climb of 900 meters. We reached the station at 10 and the young lady that was at the turnstile told us to hurry and get our ticket at the office around the corner. We got there only to find cashiers that moved slower than glaciers during Global Warming. Finally the turnstile lady came over and rushed the cashier. We boarded the small train and moments later we were on our way. The slow climb was scenic but only an appetizer for what was to come.

We reached the upper station to find a view of several snow covered summits and the snaking Mer de Glace shimmering in a valley a thousand feet or so below us. The only clouds in the sky were gathered around the peak of Les Grandes Jorasses another granite giant at 4208 meters (13,900 feet). The sun shown directly down the valley but after a few minutes we could see that with patience it would move behind other peaks and offer better “Kodak Moments”. We took a trail that lead away from the station and made ourselves comfortable. By 11:30 the sun had hidden itself behind the rocky massifs and we were able to take our pictures. We wandered back to the station and viewed an exhibit of Alpine animal life which included mounted birds, sheep, marmots, wild hogs, foxes and ermine. It was well done but only took about ten minutes of our time. We found out that the next train back to Chamonix was at 1:30PM and it was now 12:30. The choice to wait and have yet another baguette sandwich or hike down to town and find more interesting fare. We started down the trail. The sign at the trailhead stated 1 hour and 40 minutes to reach Chamonix; it took us ten minutes longer as we stopped to gasp at the views and take untold numbers of photos. When we neared the bottom the trail lead us through an Alpine amusement park (closed for the season) which included a roller luge that looked guaranteed to give anyone over the age of 25 a heart attack.

Back in town we stumbled on a burger joint run by a Brit that had the best cheeseburgers we have had since leaving Hong Kong. (Note: The almost two hour hike and breakfast now seven hours past may have something to do with our favorable review.) This was followed by another stroll through town and then a return to the hotel.

We had a few problems with our room last night. The floor was buckled as if it had been soaked and then allowed to dry with no effort made to minimize the warping of the wood. The view was over the small river that runs through town, but it faced away from Mont Blanc and into other buildings. The temperature during the night must have reached 120ﾟ or at least it seemed. Approaching the manager with our complaints we were told that there were other rooms available and were allowed to look at a couple of other rooms. We moved to a room facing Mont Blanc, not a great view as there are still buildings but much better, it has a private balcony and seems to be less tropic. Happy now as I finish this we prepare for tomorrows journey which takes us out of France and to Italy.

We have thoroughly enjoyed our time in France and have found it much more hospitable and easier to tour than we previously thought. I intend to return with a bicycle and tour more of the countryside, moving between the regions by train and then cycling to see the sights. Holly is non-committal at this time, but I think she’ll come around. Anyone interested in joining us please let me know.

Are We There Yet? November 15, 2006

Today we are traveling to the town of Chamonix in the French Alps and situated at the base of Mont Blanc and in the central eastern part of the country. Our starting point is Les Eyzies which is in south west France and about 280 kilometers (175 miles) from Chamonix which is mainly east (slightly north) from the starting point. To reach Chamonix a mere 280 kilometers away we had to first go mainly north (SLIGHTLY east) approximately 230 km to Paris during which we changed trains in Perigueux and Limoges. We arrived in Paris Austerlitz Station but were leaving from Paris Gare De Lyon which meant a 15 minute walk across the Seine, of course in full pack. As I write this we are on the Paris to Annecy leg. When we arrive in Annecy we will transfer to a train to St Gervais Le Fayet and once there to a train that will take us to Chamonix Mont Blanc. We left the hotel this morning at 6:15 in order to catch the 6:32 train. We are scheduled to arrive in Chamonix at 7:43 tonight. A quick calculation will tell you that we will spend over thirteen hours traveling the as-the-crow-flies 280 km (175 miles). Using the “I don’t have anything else to do so I’ll guestimate these distances measurement system” it appears we will travel somewhere in the neighborhood of 850-900 kilometers if you follow the route through Paris, which unfortunately we have to do. Paris is the main hub for trains in France and to travel due east or west in the middle or southern reaches of the country without going to Paris would mean finding your way through a maze of local trains and stations. Not a good alternative.

Now before, if you haven’t already said it, say to yourself “I don’t feel sorry for you guys, it’s your choice to be there and beside you don’t have to get up and go to work in the morning” let me say that I don’t feel sorry for us either. We are seeing France, maybe every last inch of it, and the weather again today is beautiful. Almost too warm at around 18C (65F), but still very nice. My problem is that I had nothing else to write about today and thirteen hours of travel time to kill, so this will take care of about an hour. If we arrive on time in Chamonix without any problems I’ll leave this as is for publication. If excitement comes our way I’ll add on later. Scroll down from here to see if we made it.

Waaay Back in Time November 14, 2006

Today’s plan is to visit two the caves that contain prehistoric drawings that are located here in the VezereValley in the Dordogne region. We walked to the information office and rented bicycles so that we could reach the sites. The first, at Combarelles, is about four kilometers from town and the second; Font-de-Gaume is about one kilometer. The first bike presented to us had a problem with the chain and the second had tires that were almost flat. The pump they gave us didn’t work and they had no other bicycles. After a brief “conversation” that included broken Frenglish, hand signals and I’m sure some not so nice facial expressions, we were told that there was a garage “down the road” and we could get air there. Ten minutes later we were inflated and ready to go. I have to say that this was The Perfect Day to be out and about on a two wheel conveyance. There was not a cloud in a sky that was a deep blue. The temperature was in the fifties (10-15 C) and the wind did not dare stir. It was a joy just to be alive!

I had read about the cave drawings here when I was in school and I have held a fascination for them ever since. This is some of the oldest art in the world and as we were to find out it is remarkably preserved, and of course this area is a UNESCO site.

Combarelles:
We took this tour first and as it turned out, as we have often found traveling in the off season, there were only two other people on the tour. The number of people per tour is limited because of the narrow passages and small spaces for viewing, but as I said this was not a problem today. The tours are normally conducted in French only but our guide was bilingual and was nice enough to explain the highlights to us during the hour or so we were in the cave. The cave contained over a hundred drawings and etchings representing human, animal and geometric figures that may represent the artist’s shelters. Some of the figures require some imagination to discern while others seem ready to step off the wall. Bison, reindeer, rhinoceros, horses, mammoths and lions are the main subjects of these prehistoric artists which supports the theory that the purpose of the pictures was possibly to ensure a continued supply of food and clothing. The other striking feature is that at the time these pictures were created, 12,000 – 14,000 years ago, the passages were barely big enough to crawl through. The deepest part of the cave is almost 200 meters (650 feet) from the entrance. The only light source would have been small lamps made from a rock dish filled with fat with a wick of some type of fibrous material. Most of the pictures in this cave are etched into the rock using flint or other hard materials but a few still show the color that were applied twelve centuries ago.

After our visit our guide told us of a cliff dwelling that was still inhabited as late as the 1960s. We rode the two kilometers or so away from town to take a quick look and found it quite easily along side of the same road. The inhabitants had built quite a complex of enclosures using the natural limestone overhangs and filling in spaces with what appeared to be a lime sand mixture in order to create this alternate living space. We did not tour this as we did not have the time.

We rode back to town and found a small sidewalk café for lunch. I have to tell you that it was the best meal I have had in a while. Holly went for soup and a salad, which she said was great. I had the biggee meal that included by course; 1.pan fried duck liver with peach slices in peach sauce, 2.a salad with proscuitto ham and duck breast, 3.a rib eye steak with a pyramid of sautéed baked potato pieces, 4.cheese with walnuts on a bed of lettuce, 5.pistachio ice cream. OH my god! I loved every bite even as I thought I was going to explode. I had no idea the servings would be so large. After number 1 I just ate half of the servings just so I could get through it. We also had help from a local lady with ordering as the proprietor spoke only French. Did I mention that I ordered a bottle of wine on top of all that? Half of the bottle left the restaurant with me, stowed safely in my pack.

We rode; I struggled, the kilometer back to the Font-de-Gaume, my steel steed groaning under the additional load. We arrived at the gate a few minutes late and had to make a mad dash 400 meters uphill to catch our tour. By some unknown force dear reader I am here to write this. My advice; don’t eat a large French meal and then participate in a decathlon.

Font-de-Gaume:
Even though the tour consisted of nine people and the guide translated very little of the tour into English, this was one of the highlight of our travels. These are the pictures that we have all seen in books or the Discovery Channel. Herds of bison and reindeer graze on the wall in living color. Anatomically so lifelike that even the novice archeologist can recognize them for what they are. This cave has fewer figures than Combarelles but the quality is astounding. This is also the last cave that has polychrome pictures that is open to the public. We are thrilled we got to see it.

After the tour we rode around Les Eyzies visiting an old church, crossing the river for better views and generally enjoying the end of a perfect day. Back at the hotel we were welcomed by our host’s small black dog (maybe a peek-a-poo) that can’t seem to get enough attention. A few minutes by the fire and we are back in our room preparing for tomorrow’s trek across France to visit the ink pen capital of the world Mont Blanc.

Are You Kiding Me? November 13, 2006

Up at 5AM and out the door at 6:28 we walked in the dark along the village roads and over the Le Cher river bridge to the Chissay train station. The morning was cool and, thank you weather gods, dry. It took us about ten minutes and while we sat and waited, the morning commuters started to arrive. By the time the train pulled into the station our number had grown to twenty or so bleary eyed souls wanting nothing more than to board the train for the thirty minute ride to Tours.

Upon arrival, we went to the information agent’s office at the Tours station and after telling her where we wanted to go she banged away on the console and gave us two options. We chose the less painful with stops and train changes at St Pierre Des Corps, Libourne, Le Buisson and finally to our destination at Les Eyzies de Tayac. We were to arrive at Les Eyzies at 4:30PM. A couple of connections were tight but we made all of them and arrived on time.

After checking in to our hotel, The Cro-Magnon, we did a quick spin around this miniature town, had a bite to eat (I had Duck Casserole which was fantastic) and then it was back to the hotel. We sat in front of the fire in the thoroughly French parlor and recanted the day’s events and tomorrow’s plan. Tomorrow we travel further back in time to some of the earliest records left by man.

Barley A Whisper November 12, 2006

This morning the skies had cleared and it was warmer. We decided to take the bikes for one last spin as we are leaving Chissay tomorrow. We rode along the north side of the river following a dirt path to Montrichard to see the railway agent there and get our train routing for Monday completed. By the rail guide it looks like it will be a convoluted route to Les Eyzies de Tayac which is our destination.

I navigated us to and through Montrichard and found the rail tracks, but then to follow them we had to climb a long steep hill while the tracks went through a tunnel. The important thing is I found the station. The not so important point is that the station was only a block or so off the main road we had taken into town and we could have bypassed the Mt. Everest of France if I would have watched the signs more closely. Ces la vie! All this becomes rather a mute point when you consider the fact that the station was closed.

We decided to not make the same mistake we had on Friday and to go find lunch now before all the cafes closed. The first place we stopped, hopping off our steel steeds and jauntily making our way to the door of the hotel / restaurant where we were met by a lady that looked at our bike attire and then heard the English with which we inadequately tried to communicate and uttered a single sentence, almost silently as to not offend the other guests. The only word we could make out was “impossible”. We didn’t fall off the truffle truck yesterday so we left with our heads held perhaps a bit lower than we had arrived, but still hungry. We stalked the town looking through the eyes of a predator as he hunted his next meal. The rejection suddenly brought a new importance to what had started as “Hey why don’t we go get lunch before they all close”.

Holly’s eagle eye spotted a pizzeria sign and the stalk began. We crept up slightly to one side, first to see if any diners were enjoying their repast and also to see how they were dressed. When we determined the situation was in our favor we sprang. The two older ladies that ran the café were exceedingly helpful and although they spoke no English they showed more tolerance than usual in helping us with the menu. The small café seemed to be a “local’s” place. People came in by twos and threes and soon most of the tables were occupied. A group of six came in and one of the matronly proprietors seemed a bit flustered as she explained to the lead guy that there was no way to seat them all together, with a tense loud phrase he turned on his heel and ushered his group out the door. It seems the French are not only passionate about their food but also passionate when they can’t get it.

We finished lunch and headed back to the train station to find it as we had left it; dark and locked. We had hoped the agent was just out to lunch but now at 3PM it seemed unlikely that they would open today. Plan B; we would go on the internet to the French rail system site and try and determine the routing ourselves. Sometimes our innocence amazes even me. With no other shops open we headed back to the cottage. We rode on the south side of the river following a path and on the road when the path played out. With daylight to spare we enjoyed sitting in the mini courtyard in front of the cottage before turning our attention to the task of preparing for an early departure tomorrow.

From the rail web site it looked as though we needed to be in Tours before 8AM so we decided to catch the 6:57AM train from the Chissay Station. There is no station at Chissay so we planned to see the agent in Tours when we arrived. With the Eurail Pass we are able to ride most French trains as long as we put the travel date on the ticket before boarding. The pass allows us fifteen travel days during a two month period which means you can travel as far as you want and can during any 24 hour period and it counts as one travel day. We have our schedule worked out so that we will use up the remainder of days by the time we get to Rome which is where we will catch a plane for the US next month.

The great news is that we have now booked all hotels through Rome so the pressure is off to do research looking for that next place to stay. We still have the French Alps, Venice, Florence, Pisa, Naples and Rome ahead so stay tuned for the final chapters of the DEWE (Davis East West Expedition).

A Holiday November 11, 2006

Today is Armistice Day and a national holiday in France. Almost all businesses will be closed today so we had planned a bike ride with a picnic. Luckily for us, the weather today is rainy and cool so we have called off today. We are lazing around the cottage and enjoyed our “indoor picnic”. The most ambitious things we’ve done is download the new Bill Bryson book and listen to it and wrote yesterday’s and today’s blog. So in the name of being lazy and in recognition of the sacrifice made by the soldiers of WWI, I’m closing this blog now and going back to sleep.

Note: Take a look at the picture site named in the title of this blog. we have now updated through our visit to Mont Saint-Michel.

Around the French Countryside November 10, 2006

Thierry shuffled several smaller and less-worthy two-wheeled vehicles before finally reaching the two matching velo-cycles that Holly and I would mount and ride across the surrounding countryside. Our plan is to ride alongside the Le Cher (the Cher River) about 4 kilometers to Chenonceau, a chateau built in the 16th century and once home to Henry II and later to Catherine de Medicis.

We pedaled away from the cottage and soon were on a dirt track that runs alongside the river alternating from a four wheel drive path to single track. The path, sometimes in the open sometimes running through thick woods, finally brought us to an opening that allowed us to see the chateau which is built on a bridge over the river. (The story goes that Catherine de Medicis had the chateau extended, covering a bridge over Le Cher, so that it would be easier to hunt on the south side of the river. Ah the royalty, you can be assured their priorities are in line.) The ride along the river was very pleasant being away from any traffic and Le Cher is a peaceful picturesque river. We enjoyed it immensely. After we had taken a few pictures of the chateau it was time to take the tour of the castle and grounds. To do this we had to ride a kilometer or so back up river to a crossing so that we could approach the property from the front. Once there we parked and locked our steeds, bought our tickets and proceeded through the large gates and down the tree lined half kilometer long drive. Along the way we did stop at a vendor stall and have a crepe; Holly’s with honey, mine with chocolate. They were good enough to make you want to immigrate.

We picked up our Audio Guides at the reception desk and were impressed to see that they used IPods, although they were older models. It was an interesting tour that made me appreciate the way several architects over the centuries had used the natural geographic features to shape the design of the structure. The Chenonceau is privately owned and much more exposed than the national museums. With the exception of a few tapestries and paintings all other artifacts are open and can be touched although the proprietors don’t encourage this action.

After our tour we debated as to what to do next. The plan was to ride to Montrichard a town about 6 kilometers from the chateau, the question was whether to eat lunch at Chenonceau or cycle to Montrichard before eating. We chose the later. You think we would learn. By the time we got to the town it was almost 3 PM and all cafes were closed. That left us with going to a bar and “snack food” which means a sandwich.

Next we went to the grocery in town and picked up some things for our picnic tomorrow. Cheese, fruit, crackers, wine; you know the typical French picnic lunch. We left Montrichard and cycled back to the cottage just as the sun was setting and the temperatures were dropping from the low fifties to the forties. A nice day although Holly is complaining about a certain part of her anatomy that is no longer used to a day on a bicycle.

to Sunnier Climes November 9, 2006

After breakfast at the hotel this morning we waited on the road for the bus that would take us back to the train station in Pontorson. This is a good thing. The bus stops less than a hundred feet from the door of the Mercur Hotel and will drop us within 200 feet of the train station. Very, very nice when you use to walking a kilometer or more each way. This morning and yesterday were foggy and grey. We are told this is normal weather along the Normandy / Brittany coast this time of year, but we hope that as we move south the weather will improve.

We boarded the first of four trains today at about 9:30 and settled in for the short ride to Rennes. From there we took a train to LeMans and from LeMans to Tours. At Tours I hoped to contact our hosts for the next few nights, Isabelle and Thierry, and get directions or transportation to Le Moulin Du Port (The Mill of the Port) which is a guest house we are staying at for the next four nights. The pay phones in the Tours station were all prepaid phone card only and there was no information as to where we could get a card. I asked at RELAY, the 7/11 of France, but all the lady said was “no” as she was busy with hordes of travelers coming through the station. Next, I noticed a sign for WIFI and quickly pulled out the laptop, but when I logged in and went to the site; again you needed a prepaid card to use the service. (Is it just me or does there seem to be a fundamental problem here?) Holly suggested we use our Hong Kong mobile, an expensive alternative, yet the only other option would be to arrive at the Chissay station and try to find a phone there. We called on the HK phone and arranged to be picked up by Thierry. He collected us at the station and drove us the .9 kilometer to the house. If our language skills or the web site would have been better we (or I) would have avoided some unneeded aggravation.

The house is an old mill that was complete around 1880 and was used to grind flour until the 1960s. We are staying in a cottage on the grounds which looks like it was once part of the stables and subsequent garage. We made a quick a foray to a small market in the village of Saint George Sur Cher, about a kilometer the other way, to get some things for breakfast. It was a nice walk in the French countryside. The lady that ran the market spoke no English but the transaction was made and returned to the mill loaded with provisions.

We have come to the Loire Valley for a few days of rest but more importantly we have wanted to do some bicycling in the Loire for years and have never made it here. Although this is not the bicycle touring season here we hope to spend some time on the noble steel steeds that Isabelle and Thierry provide along with the cottage. There are tons of Chateaus in the Loire Valley, a few within day biking range to us, wine to drink and cheese to eat, so here’s hoping for a few more good days of weather.

Mont Saint-Michel November 8, 2006

The reason we came to Pontorson is to visit the famous Mont Saint-Michel Abbey which is a mile or so along a causeway from our hotel. The abbey is one of the icons of France often pictured protruding from the tidal waters of the river Cousnon on a strategic location of the frontier between Normandy and Brittany.

Mont Saint-Michel is thought to date back to 708 AD and to have been founded by Aubert, Bishop of Avranches. According to legend he acted on a recurring dream which bade him to place an abbey on Mont-Tomb. Those it’s beginnings were a simple oratory it became an influential Benedictine Monastery which exerted its greatest influence in the 13th and 14th centuries. Pilgrims journeyed here to honor the cult of St. Michel, the Archangel, and it became a renowned center of medieval learning. During the Hundred Years War it resisted all English assaults and was seen as a symbol French national identity. Following the Revolution and the dissolution of the religious community the abbey was used a prison until 1863. It was declared a national historic monument in 1874 and today more than 850,000 people a year visit this important part of French history. In case you’re wondering, it is a UNESCO site.

To begin, we took the bus back to the rail station this morning to get an update on the scheduled rail strike and try to line up tomorrow’s train trip. We then took the bus to Mont Saint-Michel which let us off less than a hundred feet from the gate. Even though the weather today was foggy and grey the abbey sitting on its rocky base is a sight to behold. From a distance it appears to be a storybook castle and it would not have surprised us to see nights in armor waiting at the gate. As you get closer, the parking lots, even though they were only about 10% filled now in the off season, are distracting but the overall grandeur of the island with its walled village and Abbey reaching skyward more than make up for the modern clutter.

We made our way through the gates and began the climb toward the abbey which is situated well above the causeway level. The narrow winding road through the village is lined with the ever present scourge of modern tourism, the souvenir vendors, and yet even this does not remove the awe we felt as we approached the entrance to the religious shrine. We bought our tickets, got our audio guides and began the tour. The audio tour while comprehensive is somewhat dry. I attribute this to the material being mainly focused on monastic life and how unexciting, albeit rewarding for some, this life style must have been. The guide therefore focuses more on the architectural features of the place; nice but not thrilling. We did enjoy the tour as the interior of the abbey is almost as impressive as the views of the elevations.

After our tour and strolling along the village road we stopped for lunch at an excellent café with large windows overlooking the tidal flats. Both the French cuisine and the view were worth the price and we left quite satisfied.

We chose to walk the causeway back to the hotel and stopped to take several pictures. The skies weren’t clear and the tide was out, but we will always remember our visit to Mont Saint-Michel.

More Bayeux and a Short Hop November 7, 2006

We started the day with ambitious plans to go to the 360ﾟtheater at Arromanches 360 Cinema Circular, the Musee Memorial D’Omaha Beach and an afternoon matinee back in Bayeux before catching a 5:13 Pm train to Pontorson.

We found as we started the day that transportation to and from the beach area would be a problem as the buses are now running an off season schedule. To hire a taxi to take us to all these places would be prohibitively expensive. We did take a taxi to the Arromanches 360 to watch the film that was produced to primarily show French children the relation between today’s Norman countryside and how it looked during the D-Day operations. The film is graphic and loud at times showing actual battle scenes of the battles and their effect on the civilian population. There was a large group of 8-9 year olds in the theater with us as we watched the scenes unfolding all around us. One small girl leaned on me several times during the most unnerving scenes so I believe that it made an impression, although I’m not sure that it was positive.

The 360 theater is set high on a cliff overlooking the town of Arromanches and after the film we followed the single lane road down to the town. It was a clear, cold, blustery day made for walking and the views of the coastline and the town were outstanding. When we reached the town we tried to locate a bus that would take us to Omaha Beach but soon found that this was not an option. We saw Samuel, our guide from the day before, and he told us where to find the bus stop for the return trip to Bayeux. We had the schedule for that bus which was scheduled for 2 PM, so we went to the Visitors Center to see what other options we might have. The Visitor Center was closed for lunch, typical here, so we found a small café run by two very accommodating ladies and had lunch. After lunch we walked up to the main road and caught the bus back to Bayeux. The matinee had already started so we instead strolled through town looking in shops before retrieving our packs from the Bayeux Visitor’s Center and making our way to the rail station.

Pontorson is almost a two hour train ride and it was dark by the time we arrived. At the Pontorson station the train was boarded by two policemen that escorted a boy, maybe 16 years old, and his dog from the train. We’re not sure what that was about but no-one seemed to be too upset about it. The rail agent gave us directions to the corner bus stop and we made it to our hotel around 8 PM and after having a glass of wine for me and a cup of tea for Holly we settled into our room for the night.

Sixty Two Years Six Months, to the Day November 6, 2006

The reason we find ourselves in Normandy is to see the D-Day landing sites, visit the cemeteries and learn more about this bloody page of history. We had tried to book a tour on-line but had been notified a that it was full so today we started from scratch. We like to have plans and reservations in place when possible so that we make the most of our time, but sometime it doesn’t work out.

We visited the Visitor Information Center in this still quaint town and were given the information about tour companies. Unlike Scandinavia or the UK, French info centers will not book tours or hotels in fact they would not even call us a taxi. They provide information and that is about all. The pay phones only take prepaid cards, which we don’t have so we walked back to the hotel made some calls and booked a tour for this afternoon. In the meantime we went to see the Bayeux Tapestry. This is a piece of needlework 70 x .7 meters ( 230 x 2.2 feet) which tells the story of the Norman invasion of England in 1066 and the resulting coronation of William the Conqueror. They have done a nice job of displaying the tapestry and there is a short film which interprets the scenes stitched into the fabric. The tapestry was completed in 1077 in time for the opening of the Bayeux cathedral. After that it was only shown twice a year for short periods which explains its excellent condition.

After lunch we joined our D-day tour with Samuel, our English speaking guide.

D-Day part of Operation Overlord which was the invasion and liberation of continental Europe began here in Normandy on June 6, 1944. The Allied forces including Americans, British, Canadians, free French, Polish and Chech forces assaulted the French coast first with airborne troops shortly after midnight, followed by an amphibious landing that stretched along 60 kilometers of coastline. The German defenses while well made and manned were unable to hold out and the Allies in all sections were off the beach by the end of the day but still faced almost a year of intense fighting before ending the war in Europe. The beaches were divided into sectors with Americans forces assaulting Utah and Omaha Beaches while joint forces commanded by the British attacked Sword, Juno and Gold Beaches. The heaviest casualties were on Omaha Beach where 1000 Americans were killed landing on these beaches protected by 30 meter high cliffs and well designed defenses manned by experienced German troops.

Our first stop was Arromanches a village that overlooks Gold Beach and the site of enormous floating harbors. They had a slide show in the Musee du Debarquement along with equipment and pictures that helped us understand the size and scope of this operation. After the landing, two floating harbors, pieces of which had been built in Britain, were towed to the French coast. The one at Omaha Beach was destroyed by a storm a couple of weeks into the campaign and although the harbour at Gold Beach was damaged it was repaired and allowed the Allies to unload untold thousands of tons of equipment during the following months.

We then proceeded to German gun emplacements with large guns in impressive reinforced concrete bunkers pointing seaward and few being damaged by the aerial and ship bombardments in the hours prior to the landing. It made me wonder how much the average soldier knew about the defenses they would face as they made their way ashore.

Our next stop was the most sobering, the American Cemetery. 9386 American soldiers are buried here and it is a powerful sight. The crosses, all of uniform size the only differentiating feature being the Star of David on some of the crosses, are arranged in precise rows and seem to stretch forever. It is a beautiful place, one of peace yet a place that tells a story of the sacrifice of so many young men that were fighting for a cause that I believe was clear to them especially when you put in the frame of current reference. I found myself with a feeling of gratefulness to these men that were able to put themselves in harms way to protect and preserve freedom in a world that had been turned upside down by a small group of fanatical people. I don’t have the words to describe the impact that a visit to this place had as we walked through the cemetery. I just hope that somehow these men knew that the world would appreciate the sacrifice they made.

We then moved to Omaha beach where 1000 men were killed in the first days fighting. The soldiers coming ashore were faced with several hundred yards of open beach before they reached any sort of cover while moving toward fortifications that were designed to stop precisely this movement. I cannot imagine the courage it took to board the landing craft much less the feeling when the ramp dropped and there was nothing between them and their enemy. The fire from the defenses was intense yet these soldiers kept pushing forward and at the end of the day had established a beachhead. The monuments on Omaha felt hollow to me but I cannot begin to picture a monument that would befit these courageous souls.

Lastly, was Pointe du Hoc where US Army Rangers scaled a 100’ high cliff using grappling hooks, ropes and rope ladders. Facing tremendous automatic weapon fire power they overcame all obstacles only to find that the big guns they had expected to find had been moved. Out of the 225 men that began the day 150 made it to the top. After taking the cliff top and repulsing counter attacks they were relieved on June 8 at which time 81 had been killed and 58 wounded.

To tour the Normandy battlefields today is a moving experience both because of recognition of the accomplishments of these brave men and the disturbing disconnect with the current state of affairs in the world and what our troops face today in the Middle East.

Bern to Bayeux November 5, 2006

We loaded the human pack mules and struggled away from the Hotel Astoria just after 6:30 AM for the 1 km trek to the train station where we were scheduled to catch the 7:34 AM train bound for Geneva. The morning is clear and cold which was good for walking but made for a cold wait while we rested on the train platform.

The countryside continues to amaze with the views overlooking the vineyards clinging to the slopes above Lake Geneva. Again, the weather couldn’t be better for traveling. Once in Geneva, we changed to a French train bound for Paris.

The French Alps are a bit disappointing after the German, Austrian and Swiss mountains and soon the land was nothing more than gentle rolling pastures. The train was hitting speeds of 260-270 KPH (165-175 MPH) and it seemed in no time we were back in Paris. Now came the tough part; we had to take the metro to a different station and make a train change in route. This means carry two packs each onto a crowded subway style train, getting off and then doing it all again. We finally made it to our station where we had time to go out and have lunch before our departure time of 4PM.

Our final train of the day was on time and we made it to the town of Bayeux in Normandy. It was dark but after a fifteen minute walk we found our way to the hotel and got checked in for the night.

A Quick Tour of Bern November 4, 2006

The weather is beautiful this morning with bright blue skies and cooler temperatures. Our plan is to walk around Bern’s historic district. Bern is located about a third of the way between Zurich and Geneva and is the capital of Switzerland as well as being its most attractive and well preserved city. It is located on a bend in the Aare River set on a bluff the city’s terraces abound with opportunities to view the river as well as the surrounding Alps.

This was Saturday morning and there was an open air market near the old city gate which we wandered around for a while. We left the market and strolled through the old town before coming to another market where we found an unusual wind mobile that I’m sure we will find a place for someday. After lunch and sitting in the afternoon sun overlooking the river we headed back to the hotel and the never ending chore of research, planning and reservationing on the internet.

Tomorrow we have an early train that will take us to Normandy where we will spend the next few days.

Winter Trekking November 3, 2006

Up at 5:30 and out of the door at 20 minutes till 7 we carefully navigated the snow-covered downhill path to the station. Our bus was there and we were soon sloshing our way toward Salzberg which is only about 45 minutes away. Safely at the station, we hoped the iffy part of today’s journey was behind us although we still have another seven hours to go- this will be by train which is not effected by normal snow fall.

We boarded our train a few minutes before 11 AM and were on our way through an Austrian countryside blanketed in snow. The further we went the harder it snowed with visibility from the observation car windows being only a couple of hundred feet at times. It is certainly a change from our travel the last few months. The excitement for the day was a technical problem with the train’s engine and it had to be switched out when we pulled into Worgl. We were now almost an hour behind schedule which we found to be unusual on European trains.

By the time we reached Zurich the snow was only visible on distant mountainsides but as we walked across the platform to change trains we found the air was still cold. The train to Bern was packed with Friday evening commuters as we had missed our scheduled train due to the earlier delay but we found seats for the one hour ride.

Once at the Bern Central Station it was time to play our ongoing game of find-the-hotel. The game is made more challenging when we arrive at a new town in the dark as we had tonight. We tried to buy a map and found we had forgot that now we needed Swiss Francs instead of the Euros we have been using since Ireland. A quick trip to an ATM and a stop at the Kiosk convenience store and we were off…off wandering around the station looking for the correct exit. At last we found it, using a compass, and after a kilometer or so walk we were at the Astoria Hotel. Believe me the name is grander than the place.

Winter Wonderland November 2, 2006

As I was coming out of the shower this morning Holly’s unexpected expletive had me standing beside her looking at the window at a world white with snow. The flakes were still coming down fast but a sense of urgency took over and we hurriedly got dressed and went down for breakfast. As we sat by the picture window at breakfast Holly kept bemoaning the fact that she couldn’t believe it had snowed and was still snowing. As much as she protested I believe the little girl inside was trying to get out.

After breakfast, with skies now clearing, we walked down the path and across the foot bridge over the RR tracks and caught the bus to Konigsee. Konigsee is a lake formed by glaciers during the ice ages and at approximately 2000’ in elevation it is Germany’s highest lake. Steep mountain walls rim the lake making it one of the most scenic we have seen. It is a misplaced fjord isolated by the Alps from the sea. The German government takes stringent steps to keep the lake as pure as possible. All sewerage from lakeside development is piped under the lake to a treatment plant and the only power boats allowed on the lake have electric motors. They have done an excellent job as the lake is pristine and with a layer of snow, blue skies and the now shining sun, it was breathtaking.

We boarded one of the electric tour boats along with 100 or so other wide eyed tourist. The boat is covered and both sides have tall widows designed to give the passenger a top to bottom view of the lake and surrounding mountains. Ten minutes or so away from the dock the boat stopped and our German speaking guide, we seemed to be the only English speaking people on the boat, began to elaborate humorously as all the other passengers began to laugh. He then pulled out a fugel horn and began to play a staccato tune, pausing long enough between phrases to allow the echo to return. At the conclusion we all cheered and contributed to the passed hat. The boat continued on past one stunning view after another until we reached the furthest most point which is the Pilgrimage Church of St Bartholoma. The church was originally built in 1134 and was renovated in the late 17th and early 18th century to its current Baroque style. It is the destination of a pilgrimage that starts in Maria Alm, Austria, and which crosses Steinernes Meer. Its setting on the lakeshore and among the snow clad trees and mountains was unforgettable. We left the boat and walked the area surrounding the church taking pictures and enjoying the fall / winter day. The trees still held a lot of colorful leaves made even more vivid by the white frosting.

We caught the next boat back to the dock, found the bus to Berchtesgaden and found a local café to have lunch. Holly had ordered a bowl of lentil soup which had slices of sausage and it came in a bowl that looked as it was designed to feed four people. I helped her with it and it was the best thing I have eaten in a while. My grilled sausage and sour kraut, while very good, paled in comparison. I’m beginning to believe that Holly has a sixth sense about what to order on a menu as she continues to come up with winners to my also-rans. We wandered around town looking for toothepaste, a post office, replacement sun glasses for me, (I had lost mine a couple of days before) and an internet café as the hotel does not offer a connection. This is why all of you hungrily waiting the next installments of the DEWE have been disappointed. We hope to be back on line at our next hotel.

Back at the hotel we are again packing and getting ready to leave in the morning. With the trains not running through Berchtesgaden until November 14 we will take a 6:55 AM bus to Saltzburg where we can catch a train to Zurich and our ultimate destination of Bern, Switzerland.

Note: Late in the evening as we were packing, Holly again let out an expletive as she looked out the window. It was snowing again, and this time it meant business. When I drifted off to sleep around 11 PM flakes the size of marbles were still falling. The walk down the hill to the train / bus station tomorrow morning should be fun.

All Saint's Day November 1, 2006

A cold rainy All Saints Day here in the Bavarian Alps caused Holly and me to rethink our plan to take a bus to Konigssee, the large lake just south of Berchtesgaden and Germany’s highest lake. Our plan was to take the boat from the north end of the lake to St. Bartholoma a picturesque lakeside church. We’ll try again tomorrow.

We decided instead to don our raingear and stroll around the town. Our explorations soon yielded the fact that only a few restaurants were open on this holiday which we found they take very seriously here. We were told by the proprietor of a shop we were in yesterday that activities would begin around 2 PM. We wandered around had lunch and generally tried to stay warm and dry until that time. We had made a stop back at the room where the ever present laundry waited to be done by hand. Unfortunately we lost track of the time and had just sat down for lunch when people dressed in traditional Bavarian clothing began moving around the narrow street outside of the café. A gentleman in the café told us that they had just finished in the cemetery next to the town hall and church and the group was moving on to the next one. There was a band with brass instruments and a drum as well as a choir. From what we could understand they will go to each cemetery to play, sing and pay their respects to the departed. All this while the rain fell and the wind blew. As I said they take this holiday seriously.

After lunch the procession we had seen had moved on and we had no idea where they went so Holly and I satisfied ourselves with more town explorations. A Schloss (castle) and church stand in the town which we viewed from the outside, but they were closed today so we could not go in. We took a trail from near the Schloss which led us high over the town and despite the weather held fine panoramas of the valley and the mountains.

A stop at the café next to our hotel for hot chocolate and apple fritters helped us to warm up and recharge, but with the light fading fast we called it a day and headed to the room.

The Eagle's Nest and the Wolf's Lair October 31, 2006

Happy Halloween!

We woke to gorgeous views of the valley below our balcony and the mountains above. A thin layer of clouds in the valley at daybreak by breakfast was a complete shroud of fog that limited our vision to a few hundred feet. As mountain weather is prone to do things changed as we started down the path across the road from the hotel toward the bahnhof (train station). The clouds had cleared and a blue sky formed a brilliant canopy over a perfect crisp fall day. All I can say is that the weather gods must really like us as the weathermen have been forecasting rain for several days and we have so far escaped it. Today we hit the jackpot as we are going to Kehlsteinhaus (The Eagle’s Nest) which has spectacular views of the Bavarian Alps and surrounding areas including Salzburg, Austria.

The Eagle’s Nest was the Nazi Party’s present for Hitler’s 50th birthday in 1938. (This was actually Martin Boorman’s project by which he set the standard for “sucking up”.) It is a meeting center located on Kehlstein mountain about 6000’ feet above sea level. It is set on a promontory jutting from the mountain which gives it a commanding view, up to 200 km / 125 miles, of the surrounding countryside. The road to reach the base of the complex and the elevator shaft with its vertical tunnel in solid rock are engineering marvels especially when you consider they were completed in just thirteen months. The road was carved from the side of Kehlstein from solid rock and from personal experience it must have been a nail biting job. There are areas that inches from the shoulder of the road you could look straight down a thousand feet or more. Once at the base we passed through a 124 meter (407 feet) long tunnel to reach the elevator. The tunnel is nicely finished with smooth stone and reflects the care that was taken in the overall construction. The elevator, which rises 124 meters, is quite elegant and is finished in brass. It would probably hold 30-35 people and makes the trip in less than a minute.

The Eagle’s Nest itself consist of a large meeting room, a dining room, kitchen, lavatories and a small room that is said to have been used by Eva Braun for serving tea. It is built of marble with 3’ thick foundation walls. It was built in the typical 3Rd Reich architecture. Paid German labor was used for construction and the quality of the finishing is superb.

After all this Hitler only came here 4-5 times for various reasons one of which may have been his aversion to heights. One reason the site was chosen was because it overlooks Obersalzberg which Hitler started using as his party headquarters in 1928 and continued using as a part time residence until his death in 1945.

We took a bus from the Berchtesgaden bahnhof to Dokumentation Obersalzberg (the museum) and from there a special bus to the parking area below the Eagle’s Nest. We walked through the tunnel and took the elevator to the top. The tunnel and elevator look today the way they did the last time Hitler made this journey. It is a little creepy if you think about that while making the journey. When you get to the Eagle’s Nest the exterior of the building itself is the same while the interior serves as a restaurant for visitors now. There is a trail that takes you to overlooks just to the northeast of the “Nest” and are well worth the five minute walk especially when there is clear weather like we had today. (Please see the photos at XXXXXXXXX.) The Bavarian Alps are a combination of rugged rocky peaks surrounded by pastoral lands dotted with quaint Bavarian style houses. Holly and I could only say “it just looks so Bavarian”. We feel very lucky to have had the clear weather today especially since this is the last day of the season for the Eagle’s Nest and it won’t reopen until mid-May 2007.

We took the special bus back down the mountain to the Dokumentation Obersalzberg where we toured the museum including an extensive bunker complex built deep underground. The museum gives a vivid picture of the rise of Adolph Hitler and the costs to the German people. While a majority of Germans supported Hitler and the Nazi Party a smaller number fought against the tyranny which was the trademark of the Third Reich. A great number of these people paid with their lives or time in one of the concentration camps. (As a note; the concentration camps originated in 1933 with Dachau and were used for the internment or execution of Germans that opposed the Nazi Party.)

After the bus ride back to Berchtesgaden we found a sign informing us that train service will be discontinued between November 1-14th. It looks like we’ll have to take a bus to Salzberg to pick up the Austrian train line when we leave here on Friday. Our only concern is that snow is forecast for Thursday. We’ll keep our fingers crossed that we don’t get snowed into this Alpine village, although worst things could happen.

We climbed the hill back to the Zentrum (town center) and found a local restaurant for a Bavarian lunch. Holly had weiner schnitzel and I had grilled calves liver and onions. I would have come here earlier if I’d known.

After lunch we had a quick shopping spree which found us sporting new head gear. Back to the hotel to mentally prepare for the weather to come; rain tomorrow and snow on Donnerstag (Thursday).

On to the alps October 30, 2006

Holly and started the day standing in a line at the post office so that we could mail yet another package back to the states. Munich is a town that starts early, with a healthy queue being formed before the 7:30 AM opening.

We followed breakfast with a rare event shopping for mementos of our trip as well as a few Christmas presents. We went to Max Krug’s shop where I made a startling discovery about my wife of nearly thirty years. She has had a long time fascination with Cuckoo clocks. After much searching and talking, I mean hours, we purchased one and moved on to other lighter and more fun things to shop for. All our treasures chosen the lady that was helping us took the shipping information, a good portion of our traveling funds and bid us Auf Weiderschen!

We grabbed a quick lunch on our way to the train station and we were in time for our 2:29 Pm train….unfortunately the train wasn’t and we waited and additional thirty minutes before the train arrived and we could board. The train headed south toward Berchtesgaden. The Bavarian farm land we were traveling through is neatly kept and looks to be very productive. The farm land butts up against the steep walls of the Alps which unfortunately were only silhouettes as the sun had set had set by the time we reached the mountains.

The train reached the Berchtesgaden station well after dark and a cold wind was blowing as we stepped off the train. Our problem was we had no idea where our hotel was. The web site did not give good directions just a small map which we had been unable to decipher. The station is in the valley with the town radiating up the sides of the mountains so we knew the hotel was up form here, somewhere. Taxi time! We grabbed a cab outside the station and five minutes later we were at the hotel and settling in. Hotel Dier Johreszeiten (The Four Seasons) is a Bavarian style family run (four generations) hotel that is somewhat of a labyrinth of stairways, sitting rooms and hallways. Our room has a balcony overlooking the valley and the mountains beyond. We can’t wait to take in the view when the sun tops the mountains in the morning.

Dachau October 29, 2006

Today we visited the Dachau Concentration Camp and that’s all I’ll say about that.

Cindy Doesn't Live Here Anymore October 28, 2006

Today we visited Schloss Neuschwanstein, which if you believe the local press, is the most famous castle in the world. Most of the world, at least at in the US, thinks of this castle as the Cinderella Castle, the one that Disney copied for its iconic bastion.

The castle is set on the edge of the Bavarian Alps and is a sight to behold. We reached it by taking a two hour train ride from Munich followed by a short bus ride and even after all of this we still had to walk up the mountain to actually reach the castle. You gotta want it.

The Schloss (castle), built by King Ludwig II, and started in 1869 was created to allow L II to recreate the world of German mythology immortalized in the operas of Richard Wagner. The castle walls are covered with paintings of scenes from these operas and L II even had a gaudy artificial grotto to recreate a scene from the Tannhauser. He was a Wagner patron and had him on the payroll until several of the ministers got together and fired Wagner because of his exorbitant expenses.

Ludwig II became King of Bavaria in 1864 at the age of 18. He was a sensitive soul and was said to certainly be the most beautiful sovereign alive. 6’ 5” tall, fair of skin with wavy dark hair he cut a dashing figure and was much loved by his people. Life became rocky for our hero when he called off his engagement to Sophia, sister to Austrian Empress Elizabeth. It was even rumored that he was gay.

Things change quickly in the king business; Bavaria lost its sovereignty in 1871 when the German Reich was formed under Bismark. L II became a puppet king and was given a hefty allowance to keep things down south under control. L II became reclusive spending his time drinking and drawing castle plans. Things got a little out of hand as the years went by and talk is L II had gone a little too far around the bend. When bankruptcy due to castle expenditures, he had started three by the early 1880s, began to become inevitable, several ministers and relatives deemed that it was necessary to “manage” the king. In January of 1886, a hasty psychiatric test was arranged and L II was declared unfit to rule and removed to Schloss Berg on Lake Starnberg. In June he and his doctor were walking on the lakeshore late in the evening. When they didn’t return a party went out to look for them but instead found the bodies of both the doctor and L II floating in the lake. It is reported the doctor was bruised and had a black eye. No report on L II’s condition was ever released. There are still many theories as to what happened that night but we will probably never know for sure.

Schloss Neuschwanstein, although never finished, is a bit of fairytale brought to reality. Unfortunately this tale did not have a happy ending. King Ludwig II spent only 170 days in residence before being removed. The castle, never completed, was opened to the public six weeks after his death.

Messsing Around Munich October 27, 2006

Today we walked around Munich’s city center. There are not a lot of historical buildings in Munich, but there are a few significant ones. Two that attracted our attention; the Frauenkirche, the cities trademark, with its twin copper onion domes was partially destroyed in 1944-45 but rebuilt after the war. The original structure was begun in the 13th century and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The second and more fun is the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall) which stands at the Marienplatz which was Munich’s salt and corn market. The Rathaus with its ornately carved facade houses the famous Glockenspiel. We stood and watched it as its dancing figures and carillon entertained the crowds in the Marienplatz. It springs into action everyday at 11 and noon and also 5 PM November through April.

We paid a visit to the Deutches Museum which is reputed to be the largest science and technology museum in the world. Needless to say we did not have time to look at 1/10th of the exhibits so we concentrated on water and aircraft. They have boats of all sizes, descriptions and modes of power. They even have one of the first U Boats that will make you imagine you can hear the sailors saying “you vant me to get in dat and go out der?”

The section with aircraft was just as interesting. They have a tri wing Fokker (like the Red Baron flew) along with several other WWI and prewar craft including a Wright’s Brother’s biplane. From WWII the museum exhibits a 1936 Messerschmitt 109 and a sexy twin jet engine Messerschmitt that could have made a difference in the outcome of the war if full scale production could have been achieved. This is a great museum and should you find yourself in Munich you should spend an afternoon wandering its exhibits.

Transit to Munich October 26, 2006

We left the apartment walked to the station caught the S Bahn and arrived at the central station about an hour before our 10:52 AM train was scheduled to depart. Ten minutes or so before departure time an announcement was made that the train would be about ten minutes late. I needed a rest stop so I went up the two floors to the only bathroom in this 4 storied ultra-modern, just opened this past May, train station and was back on the platform two minutes before the announced time to find Holly sitting by herself and the ICE 1513 to Munich come and gone. Needless to say Holly wasn’t happy, but then again neither was I. We trudged up three floors to the ticket office and reserved seats on the next train which thankfully left in two hours. After that it was just a matter of getting in touch with the hotel in Munich to guaranty our reservation for a late arrival. We played with the pay phone for a while but could not figure out how to make the call. We were able to utilize the phone’s internet access and finally got off an email to the hotel. Holly then had another idea about how to make the phone work and we were able to actually call and confirm our room for the night.

Our train arrived on time and we were on our way south to Munich. It is yet another beautiful fall day. As the train rolled south hills became more prevalent which provided a grandstand affect for the foliage. The fall colors are in full swing now and are something to see in the soft October sun. We come and go through the quaint towns and villages of the German countryside never forgetting how lucky we continue to be with the weather.

We arrived at the Munich central station after dark made our way out of the station and next door to the InnerCity Hotel. We may have taken two hundred steps from the train and we were standing at the hotel’s front desk. We had read that the rooms are soundproofed and found out that it is true once we were in the room. A quiet restful night followed, one that we thoroughly enjoyed.