Beneath Paris October 15, 2006
In 1785 it was decided to solve the hygiene and aesthetic problems posed by Paris’ overflowing cemeteries by exhuming the bones and storing them in three disused quarries. One of these depositories, created in 1810, is now known as the Catacombes. Today we paid our respects at the gravesite by descending the 20 meters (66’) beneath the streets in the area of Denfert Rochereau. The bustling streets above gave no hint of the eerie silence that we encountered below or that the 1.6 kilometers of tunnels are the final resting place for hundreds of thousands of Parisians from times past.
Upon descending the 130 steps that spiral down we encountered a dark and damp world that is the opposite of the City of Lights above. We trudged along rough stone tunnels lit only by small lights hung on the walls of the narrow passageways until we came to the beginning of the Memorial Marjoram. Once passing that portal we entered a scene that is hard to imagine even now. The bones of countless souls were stacked neatly on both sides set in different patterns that at times were artistically arranged but at the same time a morbid reminder of what we all face at the end of our days. Sometimes the skulls were arranged with the crown showing but at times they were placed so that facing out the sardonic smile welcomed you to their abode as you walked by, perhaps you steps a little quicker than before. There is no barrier between you and these residents of the Under World which heightens the emotions that you feel as you pass through their realm. I don’t have the words to convey how we felt during our short time in the Catacombes, and I can only tell you that when we at last climbed the stairs back to street level, fresh air and light it was like holding your breath underwater for a very very long time and at last breaking the surface to take that much needed breath of air.
We walked through the streets of Denfert Rochereau for a while after coming out of the Catacombes and at last stopped at a small café for lunch and a rest. The friendly airy atmosphere did much to brighten our spirits and reenergize us for the rest of the day’s tour. After lunch we caught the metro back to the Eiffel Tower and a lighter pursuit of a Seine River barge cruise.
The cruise, although crowded, was a welcome change from our morning’s activities. The barge cruised up the Seine past historic Paris and some of her most famous sights. When we had passed the island where Notre Dame stands the boat turned and slowly made its way back to the dock where our cruise originated. The vessel was equipped with electronic narrative via a handset on which you could choose one of 8 different languages. The narratives, while brief, was helpful in understanding what we were seeing as well as a bit of the history of Paris.
Back at the Eiffel Tower which is on the Left bank we crossed the Seine on the Pont d’lena and stopped for a delicious crepe at one of the street stalls before walking back to our hotel.
A full day of walking and being overwhelmed by Paris sights and energy we called it a day. Tomorrow we start early and will try and beat the queue at the Musee du Louvre.
Upon descending the 130 steps that spiral down we encountered a dark and damp world that is the opposite of the City of Lights above. We trudged along rough stone tunnels lit only by small lights hung on the walls of the narrow passageways until we came to the beginning of the Memorial Marjoram. Once passing that portal we entered a scene that is hard to imagine even now. The bones of countless souls were stacked neatly on both sides set in different patterns that at times were artistically arranged but at the same time a morbid reminder of what we all face at the end of our days. Sometimes the skulls were arranged with the crown showing but at times they were placed so that facing out the sardonic smile welcomed you to their abode as you walked by, perhaps you steps a little quicker than before. There is no barrier between you and these residents of the Under World which heightens the emotions that you feel as you pass through their realm. I don’t have the words to convey how we felt during our short time in the Catacombes, and I can only tell you that when we at last climbed the stairs back to street level, fresh air and light it was like holding your breath underwater for a very very long time and at last breaking the surface to take that much needed breath of air.
We walked through the streets of Denfert Rochereau for a while after coming out of the Catacombes and at last stopped at a small café for lunch and a rest. The friendly airy atmosphere did much to brighten our spirits and reenergize us for the rest of the day’s tour. After lunch we caught the metro back to the Eiffel Tower and a lighter pursuit of a Seine River barge cruise.
The cruise, although crowded, was a welcome change from our morning’s activities. The barge cruised up the Seine past historic Paris and some of her most famous sights. When we had passed the island where Notre Dame stands the boat turned and slowly made its way back to the dock where our cruise originated. The vessel was equipped with electronic narrative via a handset on which you could choose one of 8 different languages. The narratives, while brief, was helpful in understanding what we were seeing as well as a bit of the history of Paris.
Back at the Eiffel Tower which is on the Left bank we crossed the Seine on the Pont d’lena and stopped for a delicious crepe at one of the street stalls before walking back to our hotel.
A full day of walking and being overwhelmed by Paris sights and energy we called it a day. Tomorrow we start early and will try and beat the queue at the Musee du Louvre.
posted by Gary and Holly Davis @ 12:41 PM
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