Cold war Revisited October 25, 2006

The weather turned around and it is now sunny and cool once again. Our plan today is to visit the Check Point Charlie Museum. The museum is located a half a block from the once boundary between East and West Berlin and is filled with the history of the barrier and the politics that imprisoned the people of East Berlin during the thirty years that it stood. It is both a tribute to the people that escaped or tried to escape as well as a look at the twisted minds that envisioned a need to contain half of Berlin and Eastern Europe. The stories of those that failed in their attempts to win their freedom and either went to prison or paid the ultimate price as well as those whose attempts were successful line the walls of this converted residence. The bravery, ingenuity and desperation of these people are clearly displayed in these stories. We marveled at the two families that escaped with a homemade hot air balloon as well as several stories of escapes made using ultra-light aircraft. There was also a man that made good his attempt by designing and building a scuba scooter and utilizing it to travel 15 kilometers underwater to reach freedom or the man that paddled an inflatable kayak in high winds and rough seas to be picked up by a West German cruise ship. The stories of the people that died while trying to escape are more sobering but still demonstrate the indomitable human spirit and what people are and are not willing to endure. The other side of the story, that of USSR politics, and the tactics that were employed to keep millions of people under its oppression is maybe today only a faint echo of that regime but is mirrored in other parts of the world only differing in size and scope or the disguise that today’s evil may wear. The museum while interesting from the aspect of the intrigue and excitement of escapes also certainly made us stop and think of the harder realities that can befall people at any time and what a precious thing freedom is.

An ingenious entrepreneur opened a Mexican restaurant across the street from the museum and we made a beeline for it when we had completed our tour. The food was good, not too expensive and the service was adequate; all in all, a good lunch.

We made our way back to the neighborhood and the apartment for a late afternoon siesta. Holly had a manicure / pedicure appointment at 6 PM, her first in four months on the road and she was really looking forward to it. We did a little shopping beforehand and managed to buy some lightweight leather shoes to replace our sandals which we will send home along with a few other things when we reach Munich. I went back to the apartment and started packing and when Holly got back she followed suit. We’ll miss the apartment’s space but distant horizons call and so tomorrow we’re off to what a lot of Americans consider to be the picture of Germany; Munich and Bavaria.

An Easy Tour of Berlin October 24, 2006

What a beautiful fall day! The sun was out this morning and there was a chill in the air with trees showing off their seasonal colors; a great day to wander around Berlin. We took care of a few chores and then boarded the S-Bahn to the Mitte. When we arrived our plan was to catch a U-Bahn to the Reichstag but as we were looking for the entrance we spied an open top tour bus with large words across its side proclaiming it was the way to see Berlin. A quick nod between us and a brief conversation with the guide, that included a monetary exchange, and we were set.

The bus operated similar to the tour we had taken in Cologne with the guide giving descriptions first in German and then in English. This added a bit of local charm as she went through her well rehearsed speech while we rumbled along passing the sights of the city. The tour covered points of interest and events from the Middle Ages to the present with politics, religion and general topics being well covered. The good thing about these tours is that you get a lot of information in a condensed form that you probably would miss if on your on. We passed the Reichstag, Brandenburg Gate, Berlin Dom and many other historical sites. Not being too familiar with Medieval Germany the sites that most interested us were concerning WWII and the Cold War especially the Berlin Wall and the history attached to it. We are going back tomorrow to visit the Check Point Charlie Museum which we understand contains quite a bit of information on the Cold War years. For most of the tour it was just enough to be on the open top deck of the double decker bus on a beautiful fall day. It has been a number of years since we have enjoyed what Holly and I both consider to be true fall weather and we are reveling in it. As fall weather is prone to do the clouds gathered and the wind turned cold about an hour before the tour was complete. Luckily we finished the tour dry and went in search of lunch followed by a little shopping to replace warm weather clothing with warmer long sleeves.

After shopping and a quick train ride we were back in our temporary neighborhood where a few more chores awaited us during which we stopped at a small bakery and bought a couple of big soft pretzels, still hot and which we enjoyed immensely. Our chores done we’re back in the Artappart and looking forward to more Berlin adventures tomorrow.

Cologne to Berlin October 23, 2006

We walked from the Allegro Hotel to Cologne’s Central Train Station to catch the 10:46am to Berlin. The high speed train left the station heading east toward our destination. The countryside of northern Germany is flat and dotted with farms interspersed with villages and a few major towns or cities. We made six or seven stops along the way and then arrived at Berlin Hbf (central station) just 7 minutes behind our scheduled arrival time of 3:17 PM.

The Berlin station was bustling but we made our way through the crowds to find the ticket office for the S-Bahn for information about which city train to take in order to reach Charlottenburg, which is just west of Berlin Mitte, the central part of the city.

Ten minutes after boarding the S-Bahn we got off at the Charlottenburg station and followed the directions from the Art’appart Hotel’s web site to the hotel. This hotel has apartment style rooms and we feel like we are in a palace if only for the amount of room we have here. We have a bedroom, sitting room, bathroom and a small kitchenette.

The apartment is furnished IKEA style but suits our needs. It is in a residential neighborhood, not a tourist area and with the help of Frau Schneider at reception we have found a grocery store, bakery, post office and amazingly, a tailor that will alter a couple of trousers for me that I bought but the legs are too long. It appears this will be another nice place to stay and we are ready to start our exploration of Berlin tomorrow morning.

Cologne; Sites, Sweets and a Reaquaintance October 22, 2006

It was Sunday morning and we decided to treat ourselves to a riding tour of Cologne. We had found a brochure in our room at the Allegro Hotel that described the tour starting at Cologne’s Notre Dame Cathedral. The Dom, as it is known here, is a 15 minute walk along the river from the Allegro, so it was no problem to be there on time. As we approached the Dom the bells began to ring. I should spell that RING because the bells although hanging high overhead were loud enough to drown out normal talk from several blocks away. They rang for about fifteen minutes at which time what little hearing I have was diminished by the echo of the massive carillon.

The Cologne Notre Dame Cathedral (another UNESCO site) was begun in 1248. The Chancel was consecrated in 1322 and construction continued until 1520 when a lack of funds forced a halt. It wasn’t until 1880 that the building was completed. The twin towered religious edifice was built in French Gothic style and the exterior looks as though it is dressed in lace. It is also said to be one of the largest churches in the world with the north tower soaring to 157.38 meters (520’) above the ground. Even without the spires, which were built between 1840 and 1880, it was the tallest building in Europe until the Eiffel tower was built. It also houses the world’s largest working bell (we could have told you that!) the Peter Bell which weighs 24 tons. Although we did not enter as Mass was in process, we have read that the interior is inspiring and there are several must sees. The stained-glass windows, enormous Gero Crucifix, altar paintings and the1318 carved oak choir stalls all add to the Dom’s legendary status but the piece de resistance is the Shrine of the Three Magi which is said to contain the remains of the three kings. For any of you that may attend one of Cologne’s many trade shows, treat yourself with a visit to the Dom.

We boarded the double decker bus for the two hour tour around Cologne. Cologne was founded by the Romans during their occupation of the area about two thousand years ago making Cologne one of the oldest cities in Germany. The one-million-strong population makes it the country’s fourth largest city. Remains of the Roman walls, gates and towers still stand in several areas and we visited some of these sites. We found out later that a stone archway in front of our hotel is also part of the early wall. The tour stopped at the Cologne City Museum and we were given twenty minutes or so to browse through the history dating from the Roman times until post-WWII. We were given a short talk on the beginnings of Eau de Cologne which still survives today from a few local factories and under several brands. The balance of the tour was a roaming drive around present day Cologne with the guide sharing information on points of interest in both German and English. We crossed the Rhine River to the newer section of Cologne where we were treated to nice views of the historic section although it had clouded up and everything seemed more subdued.

Our guide told us that while you have the Right Bank and the Left Bank of the river in Paris the residents of historic Cologne, the left bank, say the people who live in the new section of town live on the “Wrong, Right Bank”. Almost half the populace now lives along the Right Bank, so the Lefties better watch out.

After the tour we had lunch at a local Brat Haus which was over filling and very good. We then went to tour the Schokoladen Museum (Chocolate Museum). We weren’t expecting much, but were pleasantly surprised to find information and exhibits stating with how cocoa is grown and processed, how it was brought to Europe from the New World, marketing strategies over the last three hundred years and even a mini factory where you can watch hollow and solid chocolate being made. After the tour we hit the coffee shop for our weekly indulgence, this week being two different kinds of chocolate cake and then on to the chocolate shop. We came away with several bars of German and French dark chocolate that we’ll nibble on for the next week or so.

To end our day we had dinner Katia Konrad. Katia is the daughter of Heinz and Helga Konrad that we met while sailing in the East Indies ten or eleven years ago. The Konrads live in Sao Paulo, Brazil, but Katia at the time was going to school in Richmond where we were living and we spent a very pleasant weekend touring Washington D.C with her. Katia is all grown up now and is based in Cologne for her job with Bayer (aspirin). She is a lovely lady and we had a great time reminiscing and catching up on all that’s happened over the last few years. We wish her much luck and happiness.

Brussels to Cologne October 21, 2006

Brussels to Cologne October 21, 2006

No rush this morning because we are catching a 1:28 Pm train to Cologne. We finalized the Berlin accommodations, had a light breakfast, an easy morning.

We caught our train and found ourselves in the first car of this high speed conveyance. Again a modern clean train that hit speeds of 248 kilometers per hour (154 MPH) according to the screen designed to give passengers various bits of information as you roll along.

Although the day is overcast, the fall colors are advancing upon the hillsides we are racing past and present us with picture perfect views. Unfortunately at this speed it is hard to take perfect pictures. We pass numerous villages their names unknown to us but each with its own charm. Most are settled upon the banks of rivers also with names unknown whose dark cold waters have historically been the life blood of the people that lived along their winding courses.

We arrived in Cologne and again another new metro system to figure out. Once we got our bearings we were on our way but due to a misunderstanding with the hotel directions and similar sounding metro stations we got off at the wrong place. This led to a rather long walk of 2 kilometers, with full packs in city traffic, but we finally made it to the banks of the Rhine and the Hotel Allegro.

After checking in and stowing our brick laden packs we went out for a walk along the river. To our surprise the Chocolate Museum is only a block or so from our hotel. We may never leave here. We’re saving this for tomorrow, but in the garden outside we did treat ourselves to a bratwurst and our first taste of Germany.

Briefly Brussels and Friendly Faces October 20, 2006

Our hotel is only about a 20 minute walk from the Grand Place, which is the center of Brussels, so after a breakfast of fruit, yogurt and pastries we started walking toward the town center. (The hotel had a breakfast buffet but at EUR 20 (US$25) each we decided to buy supplies from the small grocery around the corner and fresh pastries from a small bakery - we ended up paying EUR 3 per breakfast.)

I wish I could say grand and exciting things about Brussels but to me it was not a very interesting city. Other than the typical European narrow town roads lined with shops, this mid ground between France and Germany didn’t have much to offer us. We did go see the Manneken Pis (the peeing boy) which is somewhat strange. This small fountain of a boy peeing, the original dates from 1619, is one of the more famous landmarks in Brussels and the tourists were lined up to have their picture made in front of it. Legend says that the statue was inspired by the son of a duke that was caught relieving himself during a battle, the statue being a symbol of the country’s military courage. Tradition has all visiting heads of state donate clothes to the boy and he now has a collection of 650 outfits including an Elvis suit.

We wandered around the historic district, had lunch and did a little shopping before walking back to the hotel to get ready for dinner and a visit with our friends Denise and Chuck Spears that use to live in Hong Kong but have lived in Brussels for the last three years. We enjoyed their company and the great Lebanese dinner. We wish them well.

We left Denise and Chuck shortly before mid-night so we wouldn’t miss the last train of the night, arrived at the hotel and immediately went to bed.

Good-Bye Paris October 19, 2006

The train for Brussels was scheduled for 12:55 PM so we took our time with breakfast and packing. We arrived at Gare du Nord in plenty of time so we had lunch at one of the small cafes lining the platforms before boarding our train.

We have really enjoyed seeing Paris and getting to know her a little. It is a city unlike any other. I would urge everyone to try to visit Paris at least once. You won’t be disappointed.

Our EuroRail Pass allows for 1st class travel and the train is modern and clean. We didn’t know beforehand but lunch was served which surprised us as this is only a one and a half hour trip. We passed but Holly snagged a coffee and I a wine from the attendants. After passing through a large agricultural are we arrived in Brussels.

Time to learn a new Metro system! After a few minutes of study and the help of a local Metro map we determined which way to go and were off to the north side of town and our hotel. We are staying in the Botanique area at the Royal Crown Hotel. The room is spacious and modern with free wireless access so we can catch up on correspondence and travel arrangements. A brief wander around the neighborhood and we are in for the night.

I Think We Went to the Musee de Rodin October 18, 2006

Yeah, today is chore day! First stop was the Poste so that we could mail our tax return, and yes, we know, it is a little late. Second stop was Gare du Nord (the North Train station) to make our seat reservation for the Brussels’s train tomorrow.

That behind us, we then went to the Rodin Museum where we viewed several of his works including the famous “The Thinker”, “The Kiss” and his life’s definitive work, “The Gates of Hell”. Sculpture is not my glass of wine so to speak, but Holly seemed to enjoy listening to the audio guide of the museum and viewing the finished and unfinished pieces Auguste Rodin left to the world – not only his own designs but his massive collection of over 6,000 pieces of art from around the world.

After the museum we walked in the general direction of the Arc de Triomphe and our hotel which would take about an hour. We stopped for lunch at an Indian restaurant for a change of pace and enjoyed some authentic Indian cuisine and excellent service.

Near the hotel we took a little time for shopping in a sporting good shop the size of Manhattan before Holly tended to the ugly chore of laundry at the laundromat right across the street from our hotel. I was a little under the weather as I had let myself get dehydrated over the last few days, so for me it was drinking a lot of water and resting.

Back on the Decadence Tour October 17, 2006

Today we visited the Chateau de Versailles built by Louis the XIV while almost depleting the countries coffers. Built in 1687 and occupied by all of France’s sovereigns until Napoleon III in 1870 and with the accompanying Grand Trianon (the royal family’s place for relaxation), Marie Antoinette’s Palace (Petit Trianon) and 23 hectares of gardens compose one of the world’s most important historical sites. The chateau complex encompassed 7800 hectares at the time it was constructed and was surrounded by a wall 43 kilometers (27 miles) long. The site was originally used as a hunting lodge that was built by Louis XIII, but was ENLARGED when his son decided to move the royal court of 6000 persons from Paris. The palace overlooks the Grand Canal (1.6 kilometers x 62 meters) which was designed in 1668 to reflect the setting sun and at one time had a fleet of nine ships, one brandishing 32 canon, all for the enjoyment of the court. The palace was enlarged again with the construction of the Petit Trianon, in 1761 under Louis XV, and was given to Marie Antoinette by Louis XVI with these words “Since you love flowers I am offering you a bouquet, it is the Petit Trianon”. Don’t call your local florist next Valentine’s Day for this bouquet. The delivery charge alone would bankrupt most countries. Even though a lot of the furnishings and decorations have been lost since the time of the Revolution the palace and grounds still sends the message intended by Louis XIV; power and prestige. Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were forced to leave the palace in 1789 during the opening days of the Revolution and return to Paris. They were never to return.

Like the Russian palaces we visited the palace speaks of times when monarchs reigned unchecked and the needs of their countries were not always their primary concern.

Versailles is a thirty minute train ride south of Paris central and easy to find and visit. We were fortunate that Holly spotted a visitor’s information center where we bought our tickets. The queue at the palace was at least thirty minutes long when we arrived, but with tickets in hand we sauntered past and began our tour immediately.

We left the Chateau walking through the city of Versailles but decided to stop at a quaint little restaurant for lunch named Mc Donald’s. Hey you can only eat so much French food!

On the train back to Paris we were treated to a singer of mellow tunes complete with recorded accompaniment before he passed his hat along the car. No police stopped this entertainer so I guess it was the r(a)pertoire that got the kids thrown off the train when we first arrived in Paris last Friday.

Once back in town we caught a late matinee of “The Devil Wears Prada” as we need a sight seeing break which we followed by people watching at a sidewalk café. A classic Parisian pastime to complete our day of decadence.

Going to the Louvre?; Take Your Walking Shoes October 16, 2006

We left the hotel at 8 this morning in hopes of getting a forward spot in the queue at the Musee du Louvre. We had read and heard that the crowds and the queues at the Louvre are among the worst you will encounter anywhere. Our guide book stated that the museum opened at 9 AM so we were second in line at the Carousel du Louvre shopping entrance as we were told this is less crowded than the Pyramid entrance. The museum did not open until 9:30 so we ended up standing in line for an hour, but with the advantage of being at the front we would be able to get to the prime exhibits before the crowds. After getting our tickets at the automated machines (I would suggest pre-buying tickets from one of several locations around Paris) we headed straight for the Mona Lisa where we were able to view the famous work with only 30 or 40 other viewers. This made a huge difference as we passed this way an hour or so later when there were several hundred people crowding to get a quick glimpse. Seeing the original Mona Lisa is a memorable experience not only because of the fame of this piece but it also gives you some insight into Da Vinci’s genius. (Tip 2 is to get there before opening time) We had breezed passed the Winged Victory while on our way to see Da Vinci’s master piece but now took time to stop and admire this work before proceeding to the Venus de Milo. These were three exhibits that we wanted to see before the Louvre became too crowded but the price we paid is to cover a lot of ground while bypassing thousands of other works. We then back tracked and started a more orderly tour concentrating on French, Italian and Dutch paintings. The Louvre is a huge museum and it is said that it would take nine months just to glance at every piece of art displayed here. Selection is the key unless you have unlimited time, interest and energy. When we started our tour Holly and I each picked up an electronic audio tour. This enables you to key in a corresponding number for certain pieces of art and listen to a brief history and a commentary on the object. This was extremely helpful and made the experience much more enjoyable. The museum has also placed seating wherever feasible which again makes the experience less painful. I won’t, and couldn’t, name all the artist or paintings that we saw today but it was a day that we won’t soon forget.

Mid-afternoon found us physically exhausted and mentally overloaded so we left the museum and walked through a nearby neighborhood to find a café where we had another excellent lunch.

After lunch we strolled through the streets and came to Place de la Concorde. In the center of the large traffic round-about stands a gilded top Egyptian obelisk that was given to France in 1831 but is probably best known for where Louis XVI lost his head in 1793 after the Revolution. It is also the starting point for the Avenue Des Champs Elysees with a magnificent view up the avenue to the Arc De Triomphe. We walked the avenue which reminded us of the crowds on Hong Kong’s busy streets on this sunny afternoon.

We arrived back at our hotel totally exhausted but filled with the wonders of what we had seen today. I would like to go back and tour more of the Louvre sometime, but think I need some marathon training before tackling the Everest of museums again.

Beneath Paris October 15, 2006

In 1785 it was decided to solve the hygiene and aesthetic problems posed by Paris’ overflowing cemeteries by exhuming the bones and storing them in three disused quarries. One of these depositories, created in 1810, is now known as the Catacombes. Today we paid our respects at the gravesite by descending the 20 meters (66’) beneath the streets in the area of Denfert Rochereau. The bustling streets above gave no hint of the eerie silence that we encountered below or that the 1.6 kilometers of tunnels are the final resting place for hundreds of thousands of Parisians from times past.

Upon descending the 130 steps that spiral down we encountered a dark and damp world that is the opposite of the City of Lights above. We trudged along rough stone tunnels lit only by small lights hung on the walls of the narrow passageways until we came to the beginning of the Memorial Marjoram. Once passing that portal we entered a scene that is hard to imagine even now. The bones of countless souls were stacked neatly on both sides set in different patterns that at times were artistically arranged but at the same time a morbid reminder of what we all face at the end of our days. Sometimes the skulls were arranged with the crown showing but at times they were placed so that facing out the sardonic smile welcomed you to their abode as you walked by, perhaps you steps a little quicker than before. There is no barrier between you and these residents of the Under World which heightens the emotions that you feel as you pass through their realm. I don’t have the words to convey how we felt during our short time in the Catacombes, and I can only tell you that when we at last climbed the stairs back to street level, fresh air and light it was like holding your breath underwater for a very very long time and at last breaking the surface to take that much needed breath of air.

We walked through the streets of Denfert Rochereau for a while after coming out of the Catacombes and at last stopped at a small café for lunch and a rest. The friendly airy atmosphere did much to brighten our spirits and reenergize us for the rest of the day’s tour. After lunch we caught the metro back to the Eiffel Tower and a lighter pursuit of a Seine River barge cruise.

The cruise, although crowded, was a welcome change from our morning’s activities. The barge cruised up the Seine past historic Paris and some of her most famous sights. When we had passed the island where Notre Dame stands the boat turned and slowly made its way back to the dock where our cruise originated. The vessel was equipped with electronic narrative via a handset on which you could choose one of 8 different languages. The narratives, while brief, was helpful in understanding what we were seeing as well as a bit of the history of Paris.

Back at the Eiffel Tower which is on the Left bank we crossed the Seine on the Pont d’lena and stopped for a delicious crepe at one of the street stalls before walking back to our hotel.

A full day of walking and being overwhelmed by Paris sights and energy we called it a day. Tomorrow we start early and will try and beat the queue at the Musee du Louvre.

A Long Day One in Paris October 14, 2006

The itinerary today included The Arc de Triomphe, The Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame Cathedral and ending the day by having dinner with Carrie and Ted Homewood who are friends of ours from Hong Kong and happen to be in town.

It’s a five minute walk to the Arc de Triomphe from the Star Star (this is what we now call our hotel). Other than being a monument to Napoleon’s victories the road around the monument is also known as the largest round-about in the world which also comes with some of the largest traffic snarls. Although it was 10 o’clock on Saturday morning the traffic was busy at the Arc, we thought. We passed this way again about 6PM and the blur of vehicles whizzing around the monument made us glad we didn’t have a rental car here. The Arc is something to see and as it turns out is something we will see many times as our most convenient metro station is on the fringe of the round-about.

The plan called for us to walk the thirty minutes or so to the Eiffel Tower next, but low clouds convinced us that we should save it and we caught the metro to Notre Dame next. The Paris Metro System is actually made up of three different train systems so we stood, again, in the metro station looking like we were lost, which we were, but finally rallied and determined which train to take. We were surprised as anyone when we arrived at our planned stop; Chatelet Les Halles. This is not the closest station to the cathedral, but like all multi layered metro systems you end up making a decision whether to transfer once or twice or stay on one line and walk the extra distance which is what we did here.

Notre Dame is awe inspiring. The size, the architecture and history combine to make this a most memorable stop on out trip of memorable stops. The interior of this massive cathedral is 130 meters long, 48 meters wide and 35 meters high (430’x160’x115’) and can accommodate 6000 worshippers. The style is a masterpiece of French Gothic architecture and with its massive towers and famous gargoyles it is one of the worlds most well known structures. It was built on the site of previous churches as well as a Gallo-Roman Temple. Construction was begun in 1163 but not completed until mid-14th century and has been the center of French Catholicism for seven centuries. All of this and the one thing that I thought of as I walked toward the imposing structure was Quasimodo swinging from the gargoyles and his desperate plight to protect his beloved Esmeralda. It’s amazing what sticks with us sometime.

When we exited Notre Dame the sun had emerged and we headed for the Eiffel Tower hoping to ascend the Paris icon in clear weather and take in the view that so many have written about. Our stomachs got in the way and we stopped at a small sidewalk café for lunch and to enjoy the Paris experience. The food and the atmosphere were more than anticipated and we walked away sated in mind and body. A note here; we have read and heard that while in Paris being an English only speaking tourist may set you up for a certain amount of ridicule from the local population. We have tried to learn a few basic phrases and words to open conversations and thereby show at least a minimal amount of effort and appreciation of the language. This has worked for us so far and we have not had any unpleasant incidents with local people being both friendly and helpful.

We arrived at the Eiffel Tower much dismayed to see the queue for the elevators stretching quite a ways out from the tower itself. We joined Les Miserables in line and settled in for the duration. Fortunately for us the couple in front of us Nadya and Matthew, who are from LA, struck up a conversation and the two + hours that it took us to reach the top of the tower went much quicker, I hope for all four of us. The trip up the tower can be accomplished two ways; one is to take two separate elevators, the other is to climb stairs to reach the first level and then an elevator to the uppermost observation deck of this 324 meter (1070’) tower. We chose the elevator along with most of the rabble waiting to assault Mr. Eiffel’s pride and joy. The first elevator deposits you on a deck that offers impressive views and yet another queue which wraps around the platform. We enjoyed this time as it afforded us truly great vistas of Paris. Soon enough we were on the next lift and headed for the top. Once at the top viewing station we became separated as we battled the crowd and followed our own visions of Paris. As I turned the corner to the west side of the tower a young man was down on one knee proposing to his maiden fair, her with tears in her eyes. Although we are sure that it is probably a common occurrence here it is a touching occasion to see happen before one’s eyes. Of course we had our pictures made and made some for others before heading back to a more earthy existence. At the bottom we wished each other well as we said good-bye to Nadya and Matthew. They are very nice people and we wish them the best in their travels.

We walked back to the hotel stopping at the Trocadero, directly across the Seine from the Tower, to take a few pictures. We had plans to meet Carrie and Ted for drinks and dinner so after a quick cleanup and change of clothes we caught the metro which had an exit just down the street from their hotel. Matt and Tina friends of Carrie and Ted’s from Chicago also joined us for dinner. They along with one other couple had spent the week in a chateau in Southern France. They seemed to take in a lot of the local culture not to mention the wine and cheese of the region. We had a most enjoyable evening starting at the Hotel Regina with drinks and then moving to a neighborhood Brassiere for dinner, which Ted insisted on paying for. Ted also had brought some Cuban cigars and a bottle of fine French wine for me. For all of his kindness I say thank you very much I will enjoy the wine and cigars and did enjoy spending time with you, Carrie and your friends. This meant a lot to us as Carrie and Ted are the first people that we know, that we have seen since we left Hong Kong on July 2nd. Thank you guys again.

A quick taxi ride back to the hotel and we were back in our room; me soon asleep Holly up writing in her journal until almost 2AM.

We go to Paris October 15, 2006

We had a noon flight from Dublin to Paris so we left the hotel for the airport about 9:30 to give ourselves time to find the rental car return and make our way to the terminal. There was plenty of time especially since our flight left about thirty minutes late.

Arriving in Paris was another story. The plan was to take the train into Paris from Charles De Gaulle Airport, transfer to the Metro train and end up close to the Arc De Triomphe at our hotel, the Star Hotel Etoile (Etoile means star..?). The first thing we learned about Paris is that while streets and addresses are well marked, directional signage such as how to get to the train is not always so clear. We finally found the right shuttle bus and joined the herd that got off at the number 2 terminal where the train station is located. All of the automated ticket machines were broken so there was a line about 30 people when we got there and with two ticket windows open it took a while to get through this. Next we had to find the right train as this station services several lines. We got off at Gare Du Nord (the north train station) to transfer to the metro. About three stops into the metro ride with standing room only two young guys rolled their portable rap machine into the space between the cars doors, turned on the music and started to do their act. At the next stop the Metro Police came through the car and hauled the young men off. The crowd in the car took notice of all of this so I assume this does not happen everyday. We made it to our stop and with the aid of a map and after a ten minute walk found our hotel and checked in.

We made a quick foray into the neighborhood and found a small grocery where we got cereal, milk, yogurt and fruit for breakfast as is about US$32 extra per day. We made our way back to the Star Hotel Star and exhausted by the day’s activities we were soon in bed wanting to be rested for first day in Paris, and soon asleep.

Today We Go Way Back October 12, 2006

We made our last tour stop today in Ireland at Newgrange. This is the site of one of the most important passage tombs in Europe. This is a mound grave with a passage to the burial chamber that is illuminated for seventeen minutes during the winter solstice around December 21. The passage to the burial chamber is 19 meters (62 feet) long and barely wide enough in spots for me to get through, so the alignment is precise. The chamber is only about a third of the way into the mound which makes the mound almost two hundred feet in circumference. With a height of 10 meters (about 33 feet) and sitting on a hill it is an impressive sight. The chamber is built of stones that are laid on top of each other to form a domed shaped room. This was done without the aid of any mortar or cement and yet has remained dry for almost 5000 years. The dome was covered and surrounded by layers of rock and sod until the mound was complete. What makes this site impressive is that it has been carbon dated to about 3200 BC which makes this older about 1000 years older than Stonehenge and 600 years older than the pyramids at Giza. It was built by Neolithic people that had neither metal tools nor the wheel. Some of the stones used weigh up to ten tons. How they built it is just one of the mysteries as the purpose for building it is also unknown.

The highlight of the tour was being able to go into the chamber through the narrow passage way where I and my 19 fellow tomb crawlers listened as the guide described the construction and restoration of the mound. According to the guide the chamber itself was not restored but is as it was 5000 years ago. She then demonstrated through the magic of effect lighting how the solstice sunlight finds it way into the chamber. It was a moving experience.

To anyone interested I would suggest looking at the Newgrange website http://www.knowth.com/newgrange.htm , or which is easily found through Google. They also hold a lottery every year in which 50 entries are selected to go into the chamber during the solstice to see the sun enter the chamber. You do not have to go there to enter, but be forewarned they receive about twenty thousand entries a year. Holly and I are entered for the 2007 drawing.

After our journey back in time we drove to our hotel which is a couple of miles from the Dublin airport. We’re packing, we seem to always be packing, tonight because tomorrow we leave for Paris.

A Beautiful Day for a Drive October 11, 2006

Up early, we packed the car, cleaned up the cottage and drove the cliff side single track to Ballinskelligs in the predawn darkness. This was better than a cup of coffee for waking us up as the car lights swept over the side into space. The good news was that the weather had cleared and the wind had dropped to a nice breeze. Fall is in the air and as we drove north we saw more changing foliage than we have seen in years. Once in the village and on the double track road we pointed the car north and enjoyed driving through numerous Irish villages and one or two good sized towns the most well known being Limerick. We didn’t stop as we had about 300 kilometers to cover.

We arrived at our first planned stop of Strokestown about 1PM where we had a nice lunch at a small inn and pub. Next was our tour of the Strokestown Park House and the National Irish Famine Museum. The house was built on 11,000 acres by one of the landed gentry named Mahon who was installed during the British effort to replace the Irish Catholics with English Protestants in the 18th century. It was occupied by one of his descendants until 1981. The house was bought complete with all furnishings and possessions by a local businessman at that time and has now been turned into a museum. It is privately owned and what amazed us was the amount of personal possessions that were sold with the house including photos and correspondence and that you could handle almost any of the artifacts there. The family was well connected and was invited to Buckingham Palace on occasion and one invitation is available to see and handle if you so desire. Their fortunes began to turn during the 20th century and the last resident was selling paintings toward the end of her life just to stay solvent. All of the present descendants live abroad. It was an interesting tour yet sad even though the family had evicted thousands of tenants during the Potato Famine turning tilled land into pasture; a story that was told over and over both here and in Scotland. Ilene our tour guide did an excellent job of explaining the history of the house and the family.

The Famine Museum went into much detail explaining the political, environmental and cultural reasons as well as the ramifications of the disaster. A few factoids: The average Irish adult consumed 14 lbs of potatoes a day prior to the famine.
1.5 million people emigrated from Ireland between 1845 and 1850, almost 20% of the population.
85% of Ireland was tilled prior to the Potato Famine, less than 10% afterward. The difference was turned to pasture.

The Potato Famine was not only and economic disaster but changed the culture of the people in Ireland. The other factor at work during this period was mechanization of weaving which had been a strong cottage industry prior to the 1830s, but without potatoes most people were unable to feed themselves and had to rely on the workhouse or public assistance to survive this transitional period.

After our tour we started the drive in the general direction of Dublin. We didn’t have reservations for tonight so we would drive until we saw a B&B sign at which time we would pull in and ask about vacancies. Three tries netted two “no one home” and one no vacancy. We finally came to a village named Athboy where we found the Old Darnley Lodge Hotel where we are staying tonight. After looking out the window at 7:45 PM Holly announced “They’ve rolled up the sidewalks” but I know better they’re all down in one of the six pubs that I could hit with a rock from our window.

Wind and Rain October 10, 2006

We woke this morning to gale force winds and forecasted rain so we scrapped our plan to hike the Bray Head Trail. We did this reluctantly because the trail we read would take us by ancient religious sites, a ring fort and offer views of wildlife and the seashore. We head north tomorrow so this was our only chance to walk this path and we had to content ourselves with a coastal drive instead.

We drove to the post office in Ballinskelligs village because we spotted a sign advertising internet access as we drove by late yesterday after our drive to Killorglin looking for the same. It took almost two hours but we found a hotel in Paris on line and made our reservation. We have been using Expedia for most of these large city accommodations and so far it has worked out well. The problem with Paris is that there are 56 pages of hotels listed. Each page has about 12 listings. It took a while to sort through these but as I said we finally found one near the Arc de Triomphe which will put us close to the center of the city and most of the sites we want to visit.

We next drove to the village of Waterville where we had a pub lunch and watched the locals come and go. Everyone seemed to linger, I suppose because of the weather or maybe because the speed of life in this small waterside village is slower than we are used to.

From there we drove around the coast to Sneem. Along the way we were treated to what a sign told us was the most famous view in Ireland. It is a sea view overlooking a small peninsula that forms a keyhole harbor that holds maybe a half a dozen boats secure from wind and wave. We reached Sneem and found it was a stop for the tour busses that ply Ireland’s roads. The surprise was the number of busses that were there this late in the season. We stopped at the post office there to mail a package home. The post office in Ballinskelligs didn’t have any shipping boxes so we tried here and were able to mail the package.

We headed back to Bolus head and the cottage hoping to beat the really bad weather. It was a tie, just as we arrived the wind picked up even more with the rain starting again. The wind is roaring around the cottage and the sea below is tumultuous. Now we are sitting next to the peat fire and watching a TV show about a man that calls himself a river rat. He lives on the upper Mississippi River making a living hunting, fishing and gathering whatever he can find to eat. It’s a BBC special and it makes us a little homesick. We have been on the road for four months now with two more to go, but with France, Germany and Italy coming up we’ll be home before we know it.

Bolus Head October 9, 2006

After breakfast Holly and I started walking along the single track road toward the end of Bolus Head. The day was clear, the temperature cool and the wind blowing, in short a nice day for a walk. A few hundred yards down the road we came to a farm path that led off to the right and up the hill. We hiked up the trail and came to a fence after a while that afforded us great views of the Skellig Isles, St. Finnian’s Bay and the village of Bellinskelligs. We found a place where stones had been piled and we were able to cross the fence. We continued to the top of the hill and as we reached a lower crest we could see a tower rising at the top of the hill. We made our way to the top rambling along with no trail to follow. The tower was actually a ruin of an old fortified house sitting on the summit of the hill looking westward over the Atlantic toward the new world. There is a wall around the house in which are placed archer or gun slits for defense of the property. We have no history on the house but it appears to be hundreds of years old. There are only one wall and a stone stairway leading to the entrance standing now, but it is still obvious that it was built during a time when the residents expected to have to defend themselves. After exploring the ruin and taking a few pictures we moved down the slope toward the tip of Bolus Head but soon ran into thick heather and thistle that made walking down the rough slope even tougher. We reached a level area and decided to turn back to find the cottage road. After crossing several remnants of stone walls once used to define pastures we saw the house that is at the end of the road, a few minutes later we were on the single track and on our way home.

We decided to drive into Cahersiveen to try and find internet access and a few needed supplies. We had no luck in the village so we drove to Killorglin another 40 kilometers, but again had no luck with the internet. All the libraries here have access but they are all also closed on Mondays. No problem, it was a beautiful day for a drive in the beautiful Irish countryside. This area looks a lot like the Isle of Skye in Scotland with rugged mountains and seashore. If you come to Ireland try to make County Kerry one of your destinations. It is well worth the time and effort.

We made our way back to the cottage along the single track, edging our way along the steep slope and all the while enjoying the view of the wind tossed ocean below. Back at the cottage we fired up yet another disposal BBQ grill and enjoyed views of a the sunset and rainbows that played over Ballinskelligs Bay. We had our steak dinner as the sun set and couldn’t think of any place we would rather be tonight.

After dinner I finally managed to start a peat fire in the sitting room’s open hearth. Once burning it heats the room nicely and has a distinctive “earthy” odor which is pungent yet pleasant. It gives the room a nice homey feeling and is a wonderful way to end the day.

Holly's wish Comes True October 8, 2006

We awoke to clouds and threatening rain and by the time we had finished breakfast the first raindrops were starting to fall which heralded what was to come today. The fog moved in and out, the rain fell and the wind blew. We didn’t care as we relaxed within Bolus Cottage and did nothing more than read and watch a little TV.

We hope tomorrow will be clear as we would like to hike around the area and go into town. Only the weather gods know what is to come.

Perched on the Edge October 7, 2006

We drove away from the Blarney Park Hotel this sunny morning and spied a petrol station with a pressure washer across the road. The car was encrusted with a layer of road dirt that made nasty work of putting the packs in the car or getting them out. We pulled in and a young guy asked how he could help us. I told him that I would like to rinse off the car and he replied “just pull over here and I’ll take care of it”. He sprayed down the car and cheerfully told me that will be 2 Euros (about US$1.50). In Scotland I paid US$4 and did it myself. Service and a bargain!

We made our way to Killarney, a fairly good sized town, where we checked email, did some planning for the next leg and got a quick lunch. We also visited a bookstore to pick up Lonely Planet Guides for France and Germany. Paris is our first planned destination after Ireland and we are researching accommodations and laying out the sites we want to visit.

After leaving Killarney we drove to the Ring of Kerry, which is the scenic road which circles the Iveragh Peninsula and takes us to the cottage, where we will spend the next four nights. We have rented Bolus Cottage which is perched on the side of a steep hill overlooking Ballinskelligs Bay at the tip of the peninsula. We did our grocery shopping in the town of Cahersiveen at a new Spar grocery. The grocery has a good selection and we came away with all that we think we will need for the next four days. The weather forecast is somewhat bleak and we want to be able to stay put if need be.

Another 10 miles beyond Cahersiveen, we followed the directions that John, the owner of the cottage, had emailed us and found ourselves on a single track road winding its way around cliffs alongside the bay. At times the road, which sometimes has no barrier, is within inches of the edge and hundreds of feet above the crashing surf below. One landmark John had given us was “an artist’s retreat of six stone cottages standing in a row”. It is easy to see why artists would flock here. Whether writer or painter the seascapes and landscapes that stretch out before us are inspiring. It is cloudy and windy today but visibility is good and the rugged Irish Atlantic coast is something to behold.

The road winds around, following the contours of the headland, (we actually begin to think that we were on the wrong road) until finally we see what we think is Bolus cottage. The cottage is set a short distance below the single track road and allows a breathtaking view of the sea beyond. It is surrounded by pastures that are divided by low stone walls and grazing sheep and cows are oblivious to our arrival.

We pulled up to the gate and walked down to the cottage and found the key under the mat just where John told us we would find it. We knocked and when there was no answer we went in to find a welcome note and proof that this was actually Bolus Cottage and we were definitely in the right place.

After unloading the car, we took the time to appreciate the view knowing that at anytime it may vanish in the Irish mist. Holly is hoping for rain tomorrow as she wants a cottage day to just relax.

The cottage was built earlier this year and is small but modern and clean. It has an electric stove but also a solid fuel stove of the type that I had seen in my youth. The fuel here is peat (decomposed organic material) and there is large pile beside the cottage. There is also an open fireplace as well as several devices called storage heaters. These, from what I can tell, use electricity to heat interior bricks at night and then release the heat slowly during the day. There are also wall-mounted forced air electric heaters in the bedrooms. All of this makes you think that it can get very cold here. Last but not least there is a washing machine! This and internet access have become the Holy Grails of our trip. No internet or cable or satellite TV here but we do get a couple pf local channels on the small TV in the sitting room.

We look forward to the next four days of relaxing and with luck, weather that will allow us to explore the surrounding area.

This is no Blarney October 6, 2006

This morning at the Round Tower Hotel was strange. We went downstairs about 8:30 for breakfast to find the hotel deserted and no lights on. We had been told when we checked in that breakfast would be served from 7:30 to 9:30. We had the computer with us so we went in the sitting area, which has wireless, and checked email while we waited. After a half an hour and no sign of life we went back to our room finished packing and brought the bags downstairs to the car. There were only two other cars in the parking lot for the 44 room hotel. We attributed this to it being late in the season and the fact that we were off the main road. There were signs of life in the kitchen so we walked into that area and were met by a cheerful ruddy cheeked lady that said breakfast was anytime we wanted it. Breakfast finished we left the Round Tower and pointed the car toward Cork and the village of Blarney.

We were at Blarney within an hour and found a parking place so that we could tour Ireland’s most famous castle. The castle is a stone structure built in the 15th century that consists of a tall square tower with now broken battlements surrounded by 18th century grottos and gardens. The walls at the base are about 10-12 feet thick but look quite fragile now as almost 600 years of Irish weather have taken their toll. We made our way into the castle and through the queue up a very narrow (read this as a claustrophobic’s nightmare) spiral stone staircase to the top of the castle and the famous stone which is said to impart the gift of eloquent nonsense, BS in today’s lingo, to those who lay down, lean backwards over the drop and kiss the stone. Holly and I both accomplished the task and so from this date forward you can’t believe anything we say. The meaning of Blarney is said to have been coined by Queen Elizabeth I to describe the successful stalling tactics of then owner Cormac McCarthy as she tried to take possession of his castle. Legend says that the Blarney Stone is half of the Stone of Destiny (See blog September 22-23) and was presented to McCarthy by Robert the Bruce for his support of the Scots at Bannockburn. The stone is set just under the top of the tower wall in a well that will make you stretch backwards and upside down to accomplish the pilgrimage.

The grottos and gardens around the castle are worth the hour or so it takes to stroll through them. Sites include the Witches Kitchen and the Wishing Steps where it is said if you walk up and down them backwards your wish will come true.

We drove back to Cork after our tour where we did a little shopping, had lunch and caught a movie at a large mall, our way of staying in touch with reality.

Back to Blarney we checked into the Blarney Park Hotel after which we popped down to a local pub where Holly had an Irish Coffee and I had a Guinness. A great way to end a great day. The weather gods nodded our way again as what little rain we had always seem to fall when we inside and the forecast is for dry weather the next couple of days. Maybe my wish is coming true.

Note: Holly and I will be in a cottage along the Ring of Kerry and away from the mainstream for the next four days and internet access will be uncertain.

By Hook or by Crooke October 5, 2006

We left Glendolough in a blustery rain and headed south toward the Hook Head Peninsula and its lighthouse 126 kilometers away. The drive over the two lane roads with farm and commercial traffic took several hours but we arrived at the light house by lunch time.

There was a gale blowing when we reached the old light and we made a dash from the car to the visitor’s office anxious to see if tours were being conducted during times of inclement weather. The ladies behind the counter smiled and said like the light itself we provide service in all weather.

A young lady, we think named Nave (spelling?) called us over at the assigned time and our group of 9 intrepid lighthouse devotees plunged forth into the rain and wind for the short walk to the stout cylindrical tower that stood on the very edge of terra firma. The platform at the top of the light towered above us and even as we walked there were rumblings of uncertainty about walking the platform in “this wind”. Once inside stone walls six to seven feet thick and the noise of the wind shut out by the heavy doors, Nave began her dialogue about the light house and its history. This was made more interesting by the fact that her grandfather and his brothers had been light keepers and she had been in the light when it was still manned before it was automated in 1996. A true love and knowledge of lighthouses showed through as she led us on the tour which made the experience that much more enjoyable.

The Hook Head Light was built in the 13th century and is the oldest working lighthouse in the world. There seems to be some disagreement about this statement but Nave assured us that this has now been verified. The light started its life as a coal fired light on an open platform that was tended by monks from a nearby monastery. This meant the monks constantly would carry numerous bags of coal on their shoulders up the 115 steps (36 meters or about 120 feet high) every night for hundreds of years. The light was changed to a lantern style light in the 17th century and then to a coal gas lantern in the 19th century. In 1911 the fuel was changed to paraffin which was pumped about 2/3 of the way up and then hand carried the rest of the way to the light mechanism. The light was converted to electricity in 1972. The lighthouse is unique in that it has three floors which the first two were used for the keeper’s quarters and the storage of fuel. One floor has cells which were used by the monks as their quarters and Nave told us that when she was little and visited the light the first floor was plastered and painted. At that time it contained furniture and a kitchen for the keeper and his family. Now all the walls are back to the bare stone. The walk on the platform was breezy and anything not securely attached to you was lost in a hurry. Small steps and tight grips on the railings kept us from being blown away and the walk outside was of short duration.

After our tour Nave kindly gave me a copy of the training sheets they use for the new guides for use in writing this blog. She is a very nice young lady and a credit to her profession.

One other note; There is another headland not far from Hook Head that was called Crooke Head. The ships would come in and pass either of the headlands so the expression “by Hook or by Crooke” began to be used.

After leaving the light we drove west crossing the Waterford Harbor on a small car ferry before continuing on toward Dungarvan looking all the while for a place to stay the night. We had decided to wing it for a few nights because of the flexibility the car affords us. We ended up driving to a small seaside village named Ardmore and the Round Tower Hotel. Ardmore is the oldest Christian settlement in Ireland and was founded by St. Declan in the 4th century. The round tower, similar to the tower at Glendolough, was built in the 12th century and overlooked the convent which is now the Round Tower Hotel. The rooms, although dated, are comfortable and with he rain starting again after a brief break this afternoon we are glad to be warm and dry inside.

The Monastery and the Mountain October 4, 2006

After a breakfast of cereal, fruit and toast we got on the road and drove to Glendolough. This is in the Wicklow Mountains and is one of the garden spots of Ireland. The drive down took us through a landscape of heather covered hills and peat farms before dropping us into Glendolough (The Valley of Two Lakes) and the village of Laragh. The one and a half hour drive also proved to us that what we had read about Ireland’s roads is true; they are rough and poorly signed. The first half an hour after we exited the M50 we wandered around trying to find our road. Navigation is more difficult here and will be a challenge. We decided that we will stay on the major roads whenever possible.

Glendolough is a beautiful valley in which stand the remains of a monastery founded in the 6th century AD by Kevin or Coemhghein. The monastery flourished through the 14th century but with the destruction of the village by the English in 1398 it was left in ruins but continued to function until 1539. Assemblies were held here into the 19th century. Writings from that period tell of “riotous assemblies” on the feast of Saint Kevin held every June 3rd.

The ruins that have survived until today are from buildings built between the 10th and 12th centuries. The most outstanding is a cylindrical tower 30 meters (100’) tall. There is also a churchyard cemetery that is still used today.

After touring the ruins and a lunch in the pub at the old family run Glendolough Hotel we hiked one of the numerous trails in the valley. The five mile hike took us high up the side of the mountain overlooking Laragh and the monastic ruins. The views of the peaceful valley below were our reward for the effort of the climb. Our blue sky day turned to a light sprinkling rain just as we ended the hike back at the visitor’s center. Another thanks to the weather gods.

We are staying in Laragh at the Tudor Lodge B&B in a comfortable room with modern facilities ready for more Irish adventures tomorrow.

A Quick Visit to Dublin October 3, 2006

We had a 10:55 AM flight to Dublin from Glasgow this morning so we were up early and had our US$23 breakfast before walking to the terminal across the street and checking in. The weather was great as it was the perfect fall day; clear and cool. We flew Aer Lingus for the first time and were pleased with the flight and the service. We landed in Dublin about 11:50 and the weather here was the same.

We have a rental car from Budget. The car, a Toyota Corolla, has been through the mill with scrapes on three of the fenders, scratches on the doors and a cover missing from one of the side mirrors. The sad thing is this was the best looking car in this group. We decided to be ready for some rough driving. We had read the roads in Ireland are not maintained well so we thought this maybe was the reason for the condition of the cars. As we were leaving the airport and going through a round-a-bout the rear roll up door of the truck in front of us suddenly opened and as he turned large plastic pallets started falling out of the back. Thanks to my lightening reflexes I swerved, braked and managed to miss them all. Five miles or so down the road the car in front of us suddenly lurched as he ran over a large rolled up carpet. The traffic was heavy and there was no room to swerve. Thanks to my steely arm muscles I was able to maintain control as we too ski ramped over the bundle. Maybe it’s not all road conditions that cause car damage here. We will be careful.

We had booked tonight over the internet at a hotel named IMI (Irish Management Institute) Residence which is located in the suburb of Sandyford. After some searching, with one eye out for road clutter, we found a sprawling complex with the IMI sign at the gate. It turns out that this is a multi-purpose facility affiliated with Trinity College that is academic as well as sponsoring seminars and conventions and operating a public hotel. It took a couple of tries as we first tried to register at the Registrar’s office who redirected us to the hotel registration. Alls well that ends well as the room is fairly new, clean and well laid out.

We took the LUAS, the light rail, which is just a few blocks from the IMI, into the city centre to look around. Holly wanted to go to Trinity College to see The “Book of Kells”. This is a copy of the four gospels that was scribed and lavishly illustrated in the early 9th century AD. The pages are vellum (calf skin) which is part of the reason it is so well preserved. The book has survived numerous fires, a Viking raid that left 68 monks dead as well as raids by other factions during numerous wars over the centuries. It is amazing thing to see.

Also at Trinity is the library called the “The Long Room” which was built in 1732 and is 65 meters long contains 200,000 of the oldest volumes and a collection of busts begun in 1743 as well as the oldest surviving Irish Harp.

After Trinity we walked along the River Liffy and explored the old parts of Dublin for the rest of the afternoon. A quick LUAS ride brought us back to Sandyford and the IRI. So we’re all tucked in for the evening and watching CSI.

Tomorrow we start our Ireland tour and may or may not have internet access for days at a time, so please check back periodically for updates.

To Glasgow and Back to Civilization October 2, 2006

We had a nice chat with Lyn and Brian, our host at Eabost, this morning over breakfast. They were very helpful with information about Ireland. They had several suggestions for places to stay, things to see and areas to hike. We appreciated their kindness and would suggest Eabost as a place to stay anytime you find yourself on the Isle of Skye.

Now, on to Glasgow to prepare for the hop to Ireland tomorrow. We woke to rain and a blustery wind this morning so our 5-6 hour drive took us not only through one of Scotland’s most beautiful areas, Glencoe, but also through a different world. We passed hundreds of cascades tumbling down the mountain sides, some falling two thousand feet or more. Clouds swirled around and between the peaks to form monochromatic landscapes each different but the same. This is a magnificent area rivaling the Norwegian Coast with its rocky coast and sea to sky terrain. Between the weather and the narrow winding roads it was slow driving but it passed much too quickly for us and all too soon we were at the Glasgow Airport.

We’re staying at the Airport Holiday Inn for the convenience of catching a flight to Dublin tomorrow morning, but convenience has a price. After two weeks in the countryside we feel we are back in the rat race, and we’re somewhere in the middle of the pack. The good news is that we will pick up another car in Dublin tomorrow and then spend the next ten days driving around the Irish countryside.

We have thoroughly enjoyed our time in the UK. London was historic and a great place to see those places you’ve always heard about, but the rural areas are what I will remember. The English, Welsh and Scottish countryside have left a lasting impression and I will come back to spend more time here.

The Isle of Skye October 1, 2006

We were up early this morning in preparation for our drive to the Isle of Skye. We estimated about five hours to get to Eabost, the B&B that we are staying in tonight. This doesn’t count lunch and other stops we may make. It’s not that far its just most of the roads will be two lane with a few miles of single track.

We left Strathnoon at 9 AM stopping for a last time to see if the salmon were jumping, they weren’t, and another stop to see if Mrs. Bole was home, she wasn’t. We were on our way.

Our drive took us through the northern Highland countryside, mountainous rugged and sparsely populated once you leave Inverness. Low hanging clouds and intermittent rain made the landscape seem ominous and very dramatic. We reached the Isle of Skye Bridge around noon and by 12:30 or so we were at the capital Portree. We stopped for lunch at a small local café before continuing our tour. Portree is only about twelve miles from Eabost but we took another road to a headland near Dunvegan at a place called Glendale. When we reached the coast we were amazed as the cliffs rose vertically from the sea to about a thousand feet. The headland appeared to be about 5-6 miles long. It was an amazing site.

With Holly’s expert navigation we reached Eabost about 3PM. Holly settled in for a rest, while I went for a walk. The weather was still unsettled but my walk was great after being cooped up in the car all day. Lynne our host at Eabost seems very nice and we have her full attention as she only books in one party at a time. In contrast to the rustic Strathnoon, Eabost appears to be recently built and has all the modern conveniences while decorated in a decidedly upscale fashion. The B&B has two guest rooms so we had our choice. The views are of the sea and the mountains with the omnipresent sheep everywhere else.

A Wee Dram September 30, 2006

Today’s plan is a tour of the Glenlivet Distillery and to look for an internet connection to make reservations for the next leg in Ireland. We have loved staying at Strathnoon, but it is remote and we have missed the convenience of our planning tools not to mention that I have not published a blog since we have been here.

It is about 20 miles to the heart of the Whisky Trail from Strathnoon and as everywhere here it was a beautiful drive. There are about forty highland distilleries most of them clustered around the River Spey drainage. We chose the Glenlivet facility but most of the famous single malt whiskies are within an easy drive from here. Glenlivet is part of the Chivas Bros. Company and runs a first class operation and we were treated very well during our visit. Our tour started in the reception centre and our guide was named Grace. She was very knowledgeable and patient as the ten people in our group asked many questions during the tour. Grace took us from the delivery of barley through the storage of barrels in the warehouse. The youngest whisky Glenlivet bottles is 12 years old but their “Cellar Select” line can be up to 44 years old. At the end of the tour we were offered a “Wee Dram” of whisky to sample with drams of 12, 15 and 18 year old being available. Holly and I both tried the 18 year old. Very smooth! We talked to Grace for a while after the tour and learned more about the history of whisky making in Scotland. For example the only proper use of the word Scotch is in reference to whisky. There are three distinct types of Scotch; Highland, Island and Lowland. According to Grace and most Scotch drinkers that I know Highland Whisky is the best.

We drove to Aviemore where we found internet access to make our next reservations. After that it was back to Strathnoon and dinner. We leave here tomorrow morning so we spent the rest of the evening packing after a week in one place. It’s passed to fast.

Walking to Bonnie Prince Charlie's Window September 29, 2006

We planned a hike today that took us through a nature reserve and followed the trail that Bonnie Prince Charlie of Scotland took after his defeat at the Battle of Culloden. He actually kicked around Scotland for several months hiding from the English and getting to know his people perhaps as well as any monarch has. He traveled about disguising himself and living in peasant homes, barns and even caves. Through all of this he maintained his love of country and his subjects as well as his sense of humor. He joked one time “They’ll never guess what I got up me skirt”. He kept a pistol hidden under his kilt. He was almost captured several times but managed to elude his would be captors. The decision was made he would leave the country so he made his way to the coast to catch a boat. This is part of the trail he took which lead through Craig Meagaidh, or the window, so it is said that Prince Charlie escaped through the window.

We left Strathnoon around 9:30 AM and our first stop was the small village of Newtonmore. We stopped to find an Ordinance Map of the area we were going to hike. We had found the hike in a book named “50 Best Hikes of the Highlands and Islands”, but it did not have a detailed map, just a hike description. We walked down the main street of the village and found the Information Centre. Every city, town and most villages of any size here have Information Centres which is very helpful for the traveler. When we inquired there we were told that the maps were sold at the walking centre so we walked on and found it and the map that we needed. On our way back to the car we stopped at a small café for a coffee to go. Inside we found an autographed picture of Willie Nelson hanging on the wall. When we asked the lady helping us about the picture she told us that Willie comes to Scotland every once in a while and they see him as her husband use to play music with him.

We found the trailhead on the shores of Loch Laggan. The trail started in what looked to be large natural pastures with high fences. Plaques told us that there is a large Roe Deer herd here and that the reserve manages the herd and the land on which they live. They now have a reforestation project underway and as we looked up the valley we could see where the birch trees had started to grow with some 12-15 feet high. The trail ran from the loch up the valley (glen) to a natural bowl that contained a small lake with the return being a reverse of the outbound route. Total distance was about eight miles with an altitude differential of 1400’. The hike started in the young woodlands but soon broke out into the open sparse country that makes up most of the highlands. We were paralleling the stream that had carved the valley over eons into a broad steep sided V with its slopes covered in heather and scrub. The upper slopes were rugged with large rock outcroppings. As we moved up the valley we met a group of hunters that pointed out a herd of deer feeding high on the slopes to our right. We watched and photographed the deer as we moved on, but they were almost a half mile away and didn’t seem too concerned with us. The reserve is working on the trail in a couple of different spots and with the rain we had yesterday and this morning it had turned to quagmire and you had to be careful where you stepped.

We finally made it to the lake and stopped for lunch. The bowl at the lake was well defined and very dramatic with the sides rising more than a thousand feet in places with the exception being Prince Charlie’s window. Just as we finished lunch the first rain drops began to fall. The sky had threatened since this morning and it would now fulfill the promise. It rained the entire way back to the car, never too hard, but enough to make us glad that we were in our rain gear.

The plan for dinner was to cook out, but when we arrived at Strathnoon it was still raining. Never let it be said that a little rain will get in Holly and Gary’s way to grilled food. We rigged a tarp from the house using the car to anchor the other end and had a nice dry place to set up the disposable grill. I enjoyed sitting under the tarp, tending the grill and listening to the rain pattering overhead. After dinner we relaxed and were soon in bed as the darkness and the highland mist enveloped the cottage.

Hanging Around the Cottage September 28, 2006

Today we decided to take a true down day. We stayed at Strathnoon Cottage all day. Holly painted, worked on her puzzle, cooked and did some laundry. I did little of nothing. It was a great day after being on the move for almost four months. The peace and quiet was just what the doctor ordered.

Maybe we can try this again when we get to France.

In Search of Nessie September 27, 2006

I decided not to try fishing again this morning, so Holly and I drove north to Loch Ness to see if we could find the infamous monster and put an end to all the controversy. Inverness and the north end of Loch Ness are only about twenty miles north of Strathnoon and an easy drive with good road.

We stopped in Inverness first and went to the public library to check email and then moved on to find lunch and explore the lake. Our plan was to first scour the west side of the loch by road and by boat and then, if unsuccessful, turn up the east side scanning the lake from the higher ground on that side. We were determined to sight and photograph the monster clearly enough to end all doubts of her existence.

Loch Ness is about thirty miles long and two miles wide and is up to 600 meters deep. It is said that Loch Ness holds as much water as all other lakes in Great Britain. The waters are cold and stained form the peat that the streams and rivers flow through on their journey to the lake. The terrain around the lake is mountainous and sparsely populated except for Inverness.

Our first stop after Inverness was the Loch Ness Clansman Inn where we had a quick lunch and then boarded one of the cruise boats. We opted for the one hour cruise as we felt that our chances were better watching from the shore and with the length of the lake and the roads narrow and winding it would take us a while to complete our circuit and search. The boat motored down the lake to Urquhart Castle which stands on a promontory and is now a ruin but still quite impressive. We then motored back to the dock the whole time with eyes glued to the water in case we would miss our quarry. We saw nothing in the hour but did not loose our conviction because we knew our quest would not be easy.

Back in the car we continued our drive down the lake until we arrived at the Loch Ness Monster Exhibition Centre; a highly scientific institution that is devoted to uncovering the mysteries of the loch and what swims there. Even with this vast arsenal of research we gained no new knowledge that would aid our search. No, it would have to come down to endless seconds and minutes of scanning the waters constantly searching for an unusual ripple or a wake where no boat had passed. We moved on as vigil as ever.

We were almost to the south end of the lake and stopped at a lakeside viewing area when we saw something strange appear from the dark waters. We couldn’t believe our eyes; what was this rising from the water in front of us. It was Nessie herself she had come up from the depths to sit on a half submerged boulder to enjoy the subdued late afternoon light. Holly recovered and quickly snapped a couple of pictures before Nessie again disappeared beneath the loch’s waters. You can see the pictures by going to our picture site listed at the top of the blog.

Our quest satisfied we turned north east when we reached Ft. Augustus and the south end of the lake to make our way home. As the sun began to set we drove through the mountains into the gathering doom happy in the knowledge that we can now provide mankind the answer to one of the world’s great mysteries.

Fishing the Findhorn September 26, 2006

The ghillie’s son Garry, a guide in his own right, called at the cottage around 10 to take me fishing. After kissing Holly good-bye and leaving her to her paint-by-numbers, oatmeal cookie baking and jigsaw puzzle we drove a mile or so up the farm road to a pool that Garry announced would be our first try of the day. We slipped the 9” foot fly rods from the roof rack and slid down a short steep embankment to the side of the river. I do not have much experience with a fly rod and it has been a number of years since I have used one so as I stood here on the banks of a river in Scotland about to fish for Atlantic Salmon, I was a bit intimidated. Garry gave me a five minute lesson, handed me the rod and said good luck. At least I think he said good luck because combining my poor hearing and his thick Scottish accent I was guessing about half the time. The next ten minutes were some of the ugliest I have ever spent. The fly on the end of my line clearly had a mind of its own as it went everywhere except where I intended it to go. My saving grace was that with the steep embankments set close to the river we could only roll cast. Not necessarily and easy cast but it kept me from trying an overhand cast and probably impaling myself and certainly hanging the fly in brush. We worked our way down the first pool watching as a myriad of salmon jumped from the water, but when we reached the tail end neither I nor Garry had any strikes.

Pool number two was narrower with swifter water. I started at the head of the pool casting the fly to let it sink and drift downstream. Garry dropped about half way down the pool and started expertly casting across the swift dark water. It wasn’t long before I heard him shout and I looked up to see his rod bent and a big salmon jump. Garry waved me down and when I reached him he did what a good guide with a not so good fisherman would do; he handed me the rod with the fish. The clouds parted and the sun shown through when I felt the strength of the fish along the length of the rod. He made a run up stream and threw in a jump or two for good measure. Garry had retrieved the landing net and was giving me instructions on how we would position to land the fish. This section of the river was lined with large stones and boulders which make footing dangerous and getting the net under the big fish difficult. Time after time I turned the fish and brought him to shore just to have him run again when he saw the net. Then the fish rolled on his side for just an instant but it was enough to tell us that he was tiring. A few minutes later I was able to get the salmon’s head up and turned toward the bank as Garry swept the net under him and then swung the fish onto the rocks. The salmon was a beautiful dark brown, rust, green with a muscular body and a lower jaw that was slightly hooked. Garry estimated the weight at 12-13 pounds. We admired the fish while the ghillie worked to remove the hook and then after a moment I released the salmon back into the Findhorn.

I had lunch with Holly at the cottage telling her of the morning’s adventures as I sampled her oatmeal cookies. She baked these cookies from memory of a recipe sometime in the past, and I’m oh so glad she has a good memory as the cookies were delicious. My only regret was that the aroma of fresh baked cookies was gone before I had the chance to enjoy it.

Walter picked me up about 1:30, as Garry had other duties this afternoon, and we were off to whip the water again. I won’t fill space here with the details and even though we had a great afternoon everything after the salmon this morning was anticlimactic as we didn’t hook anymore fish. I had a great time today and was thankful I had the chance to fish for salmon on a Scottish River. As I sit here writing this and resting weary arm and back, I think I may take Walter up on his offer of another hour or so of fishing tomorrow.

First Day at Strathnoon Cottage September 25, 2006

After a good nights sleep in this place where the only thing you hear is the bleating of sheep and the wind as it moans over the highlands we woke and enjoyed of all things a sunny morning. Holly fixed a decidedly not Scottish breakfast of cereal, grapefruit and toast which we topped off with coffee made the old fashion way; no filter.

Walter, the ghillie, came by around 10 and told me with yesterday’s rain the Findhorn was a little high and dark and we should try for the fish tomorrow. We’ll keep our fingers crossed and hope the river clears in the next day or two. He also gave some directions on where Holly and I could hike today.

We decided to hike the hills above the cottage. The hill is named Carn Ruighe Shamraich and is approximately 1750 feet above sea level and about 800 feet above Strathnoon Cottage. The trail winds up a drainage beside the stream black with water that has filtered through the peat. As we climbed we kicked up grouse that sailed away following the contours of the hillside. We passed a small pond and jumped a wild duck that was resting in the rushes and voiced its displeasure as it struggled with the wind that was blowing between the hills. Rabbits feeding in the heather, invisible until they ran at our approach, were visible for a hundred yards or more as the sparse vegetation offered no place to hide. We had been told that there are many Roe Deer in this area but we did not see any on this hike. As we neared the peak of the carn we came upon several areas that had been excavated with short trenches that ended in an L shape. These appear to be attempts to uncover ancient sites as they were all dug into small mounds, which potentially are burial sites, but we’re not sure of their purpose. Once reaching the top we stopped for a rest and then started down toward the cottage as clouds had begun to gather and we had left laundry hanging on the clothes line outside. By the time we reached the cottage the skies had again mostly cleared and we continued to enjoy a beautiful day.

After lunch and lounging in the cottage for a while we drove to Aviemore to pick up more groceries including a couple of disposal BBQ packs that include charcoal and grill as we plan to cook steaks tonight. This will be the first time we have grilled out since last December when we were visiting Andy and Kim in Florida and we were looking forward to it. The timing of our BBQ was perfect as just as the steaks were done the rain started. I had set the grill up on a picnic table outside the cottage and quickly moved the meat inside as the raindrops sizzled on the charcoal. Holly had made her scalloped potatoes and steamed broccoli which both came out perfect and although we don’t usually eat dinner we enjoyed our feast immensely.

Is This Our Haven September 24, 2006

Is This Our Haven September 24, 2006

We woke this morning to wet low hanging clouds and a drizzling rain. After a fine Scottish breakfast, which for me included haggis, we left the Barony Castle and continued our northward journey toward the Scottish Highlands and a much needed rest. We crossed the Forth Bridge Road over the Firth of Forth (try saying that) a long inlet from the North Sea, on a bridge that took us through the mist and past the last major population center between us and our destination. The roads were good all the way to Aviemore where we stopped to do a little grocery shopping as well as find Holly a paint by numbers, a jigsaw puzzle a French Language course on CDs. She plans to stay busy during our week of relaxation.

Twelve miles or so north of Aviemore we found Old Clune the manor that Mrs. Boles calls her summer home. Mrs. Boles is a gregarious lady and a self admitted lover of Americans. She welcomed us into her home and we talked for an hour or so with her and Veronica “her wee friend” that has been visiting for a fortnight. Mrs. B is a full six feet tall while Veronica would need to stand on her toes to reach the five foot mark. Mrs. B told us how she had married Mr. Boles and moved to Australia with her new husband who was in the navy at the time. Mr. Boles was on the first British ship that called at Hiroshima after the bomb and later developed problems due to exposure to the radiation. We are staying in Mrs. Boles cottage Strathnoon which is a further two miles past her home down a single track gravel road and through two stock gates. The cottage is at least a mile from the nearest dwelling which is on the other side of the valley across the river. This is a “Sporting Estate” that was purchased by Mr. Boles grandfather in the 20s and featured grouse and pheasant shooting as well as salmon and trout fishing. Mrs. B said she would send Walter, the ghillie (fishing guide, game keeper/manager), around in the morning to tell me if conditions are right for fish. They caught quite a few last week and with rain today and the river rising tomorrow should mean good fishing. I hope so as this may be my only chance to fish for salmon in Scotland.

The cottage is rustic with thick stone walls that have been whitewashed. With the kitchen and a small sitting room downstairs and two bedrooms upstairs it is cozy and snug against the chill and rain of the afternoon. Thanks to modern technology I sit in a comfortable chair a million miles from anywhere, with my attention divided between this blog and the Ryder Cup finals that are playing on the telly. Strathnoon is set about a hundred yards above the River Findhorn in a valley that when we arrived late this afternoon was shrouded in mist. I wouldn’t want it to be any other way. This is the Highlands I have always read about.