Steppin Out on the Steppes July 12, 2006
We moved from the Tamir Ger Camp to Steppe Nomad Ger Camp this morning. We drove about two and a half hours out of the national park and across the endless Steppes.
The Steppes are rolling grassy hills accented with rocky outcrops and the occasional waterhole or river. They stretch for miles into Siberia to the north and the Gobi Desert to the south. These were the mainstay of the Mongul Nomads providing them with grazing land for their herds of horses, sheep and cattle.
The Steepes Nomad Ger camp is located 17 km down a dirt track off the paved road. We feel like we are a long way from anywhere. The camp is adjacent to the Gun Galuut Nature Reserve and on the banks of the River Kherlen gol. We are surrounded by hills but the river stretches before the camp for several miles.
After lunch at Steppe Nomad TomA, Muugii, Holly and I took a walk. We left the camp headed for Mt. Baits Uul. We were in search of wildlife. The wetlands along the river are a stopping area for both the Siberian White Crain and the White-Naped Crain. In the mountains that border the river valley live wild mountain sheep and the grey wolf. There are also smaller mammals such as the Mongolian marmot, and many different species of birds.
We reached the base of the mountain after about a two hour hike. We saw several White-Naped Cranes feeding in the wetlands along our path as well as one Siberian White Crain. Both of these birds are listed as critically endangered so we felt privileged with these sightings. They are beautiful graceful birds and although we never were closer than several hundred yards we were able to see them clearly through the ten power binoculars we had rented from the camp. A nature reserve ranger on horseback that was to guide us through the mountains met us here and led the way. The ranger was carrying a boom box that was playing Mongolian music which added a little local atmosphere to our adventure.
This was the end of the easy stroll as we started to climb around the flanks of Mt. Baits Uul. We startled several marmots that were sunny themselves and which quickly scrambled to their dens upon seeing us. We then came upon a partridge looking bird that had chicks. She scurried about gathering them together and hiding them in some brush before decoying us away by running down the ridge while the chicks stayed safely hidden.
When we crested the first ridge we stopped to glass the surrounding bowl of mountains for sheep but did not see any. We rested for a short while and then started down the far side. After walking another fifteen minutes or so we came to a valley that was off to our right. We followed it when suddenly the ranger pointed and started talking very fast. Muugii told he saw a sheep on the hill side in the direction we were walking. After several anxious seconds we all saw the sheep which ran down the hill, changed his mind and then ran up the facing hill to the crest where he stopped long enough for us to enjoy the sighting and get a couple of pictures. He then disappeared over the crest. Holly sat down with the binoculars for several minutes while the rest of our party was looking at the pictures. All of a sudden she stated theirs another sheep, but as quickly as she said that it too went over the ridge.
We continued up the valley which started to climb toward the ridge the sheep had disappeared behind. On the way the ranger pointed out an active wolf den, but no wolves were to be seen. We crested the ridge as a large black cloud came overhead and a few cold raindrops started to fall. The rain stopped as suddenly as it had started and we all breathed a sigh of relief.
From the ridge top we could see our camp and it seemed to be miles away and it fact it was. We were about half way down the ridge with Muugi and Holly in the lead by a hundred yards or so when the ranger spotted more sheep in front and to the right. TomA’s cry of Muugii, Muugii, Muggii brought our party to a halt and we were able to see and photograph two more sheep before they ran behind and outcrop.
We made it to the base of the mountain and started the long hike back to camp. Two more cranes and several herds of horses made the walk seem shorter. We also had a moment of excitement when a dirt bike appeared heading for the river. The ranger spurred his horse to a gallop and was intent on cutting them off at the pass. The Muugii told us that the ranger though these were poachers and needed to investigate. After a minute or so the guys on the motorcycle turned around and headed back the way they came. I got a picture of them and when zoomed in they appear to be carrying a rifle. With no hope of catching them on a horse the ranger let them go and we continued on.
After another hour or so of walking into a headwind we finally reached camp where we had our first warm shower in several days followed by another great meal. The sunset, which was about 9:30, was beautiful with the black cloud from earlier being replaced by a few white clouds and a sky that is just too blue to be believed.
The Steppes are rolling grassy hills accented with rocky outcrops and the occasional waterhole or river. They stretch for miles into Siberia to the north and the Gobi Desert to the south. These were the mainstay of the Mongul Nomads providing them with grazing land for their herds of horses, sheep and cattle.
The Steepes Nomad Ger camp is located 17 km down a dirt track off the paved road. We feel like we are a long way from anywhere. The camp is adjacent to the Gun Galuut Nature Reserve and on the banks of the River Kherlen gol. We are surrounded by hills but the river stretches before the camp for several miles.
After lunch at Steppe Nomad TomA, Muugii, Holly and I took a walk. We left the camp headed for Mt. Baits Uul. We were in search of wildlife. The wetlands along the river are a stopping area for both the Siberian White Crain and the White-Naped Crain. In the mountains that border the river valley live wild mountain sheep and the grey wolf. There are also smaller mammals such as the Mongolian marmot, and many different species of birds.
We reached the base of the mountain after about a two hour hike. We saw several White-Naped Cranes feeding in the wetlands along our path as well as one Siberian White Crain. Both of these birds are listed as critically endangered so we felt privileged with these sightings. They are beautiful graceful birds and although we never were closer than several hundred yards we were able to see them clearly through the ten power binoculars we had rented from the camp. A nature reserve ranger on horseback that was to guide us through the mountains met us here and led the way. The ranger was carrying a boom box that was playing Mongolian music which added a little local atmosphere to our adventure.
This was the end of the easy stroll as we started to climb around the flanks of Mt. Baits Uul. We startled several marmots that were sunny themselves and which quickly scrambled to their dens upon seeing us. We then came upon a partridge looking bird that had chicks. She scurried about gathering them together and hiding them in some brush before decoying us away by running down the ridge while the chicks stayed safely hidden.
When we crested the first ridge we stopped to glass the surrounding bowl of mountains for sheep but did not see any. We rested for a short while and then started down the far side. After walking another fifteen minutes or so we came to a valley that was off to our right. We followed it when suddenly the ranger pointed and started talking very fast. Muugii told he saw a sheep on the hill side in the direction we were walking. After several anxious seconds we all saw the sheep which ran down the hill, changed his mind and then ran up the facing hill to the crest where he stopped long enough for us to enjoy the sighting and get a couple of pictures. He then disappeared over the crest. Holly sat down with the binoculars for several minutes while the rest of our party was looking at the pictures. All of a sudden she stated theirs another sheep, but as quickly as she said that it too went over the ridge.
We continued up the valley which started to climb toward the ridge the sheep had disappeared behind. On the way the ranger pointed out an active wolf den, but no wolves were to be seen. We crested the ridge as a large black cloud came overhead and a few cold raindrops started to fall. The rain stopped as suddenly as it had started and we all breathed a sigh of relief.
From the ridge top we could see our camp and it seemed to be miles away and it fact it was. We were about half way down the ridge with Muugi and Holly in the lead by a hundred yards or so when the ranger spotted more sheep in front and to the right. TomA’s cry of Muugii, Muugii, Muggii brought our party to a halt and we were able to see and photograph two more sheep before they ran behind and outcrop.
We made it to the base of the mountain and started the long hike back to camp. Two more cranes and several herds of horses made the walk seem shorter. We also had a moment of excitement when a dirt bike appeared heading for the river. The ranger spurred his horse to a gallop and was intent on cutting them off at the pass. The Muugii told us that the ranger though these were poachers and needed to investigate. After a minute or so the guys on the motorcycle turned around and headed back the way they came. I got a picture of them and when zoomed in they appear to be carrying a rifle. With no hope of catching them on a horse the ranger let them go and we continued on.
After another hour or so of walking into a headwind we finally reached camp where we had our first warm shower in several days followed by another great meal. The sunset, which was about 9:30, was beautiful with the black cloud from earlier being replaced by a few white clouds and a sky that is just too blue to be believed.
posted by Gary and Holly Davis @ 7:22 AM
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